FDMTL (Fundamental) is a world-renowned denim brand that combines traditional Japanese technology with innovative design.
Its appeal lies in its high-quality materials, detailed craftsmanship and one-of-a-kind design.
In this article, we will explain in detail the history, philosophy, and representative items and collaborations of FDMTL (Fundamental), and tell you all about the charm of FDMTL's denim.

What is FDMTL? - Brand History and Philosophy

The Birth of FDMTL - A Fusion of Passion for Denim and Traditional Japanese Craftsmanship

FDMTL (Fundamental) is a Japanese denim brand known for its high quality denim and creative designs that utilize traditional Japanese craftsmanship.

Founded in Tokyo in 2005, FDMTL produces world-class denim made in Japan with the philosophy of “products that you will love the more you wear them.

FDMTL's products are the result of an uncompromising pursuit of quality and attention to detail that mass production can never imitate.

Many collections use indigo denim fabric, which changes like a living creature according to the wearer's body shape, habits, and time spent together, evolving into a product with a unique texture.

Designer gaku Tsuyoshi's career and thoughts on the brand

Manabu Tsuyoshi, the designer of FDMTL, was born in 1976. He has a unique background, having graduated from architecture and attended fashion school but dropped out.
He also has experience working for a general company, not in the fashion industry.
Later, while working as a freelance web designer, he made graphic T-shirts as a hobby and sold them to people close to him.
His architectural studies may have influenced FDMTL's signature commitment to structure, detail, and enduring quality in denim design.

Tsuyoshi was a fashion enthusiast who spent much of the 90s reading magazines and discussing vintage reproduction jeans and denim.
As a result, he naturally developed a deep knowledge of denim. Impressed by the faded color of a vintage Levi's® “66” that a friend was wearing, he became fascinated with “rags” and started looking for a way to express this in fashion.
Boro” is a traditional Japanese patchwork style from the 19th and early 20th centuries, made by sewing together small pieces of fabric.
Mr. Tsuyoshi felt that the spirit of the people who made rags and his own spirit were close, and he wanted his clothes to be worn for as long as possible, so he began to incorporate elements of rags into his designs.
Through his work abroad, he has realized once again that Indigo is an important element in Japanese culture.

Although he had no strong desire to launch a brand, a turning point came in 2004.
An overseas friend liked Tsuyoshi's T-shirts and introduced him to a store called ALIFE in New York, which gave him the confidence to start his own brand, and he established FDMTL in 2005.
At first, he did not give any particular meaning to the brand name and decided on a long name that was difficult to remember.

In 2006, FDMTL began full-fledged expansion in Japan and, unusually for a Japanese brand, began scheduling product launches to coincide with the seasons.
In 2009, Pitti Immunity opened its first directly managed store, “CATII TOKYO,” in Meguro-ku, Tokyo, and in 2012 began a customization service to better meet the needs of each individual customer.

In 2013, the brand began to attract international attention by presenting its collections at fashion weeks such as Pitti Immagine Uomo (Florence, Italy), MAN (Paris, France), and BREAD & BUTTER (Berlin, Germany).
In 2014, the brand also participated in White Milano (Milan, Italy) and Liberty Fair (New York, USA).
It was also selected as one of the “10 Brands You Should Know in Japan” by the web media Complex.
In 2015, he was selected as one of the “12 Best Brands at NY Market Week” by the web media LSELECTISM, presented his work at Jacket Required (London, UK), and was featured in GQ Magazine UK's “Jacket Requred London Exhibition's “27 Products You Need to Know”.
In 2019, the brand is opening a pop-up store with Disney in Hong Kong.

FDMTL has been making efforts to expand overseas, and in 2012, we participated in a joint exhibition in Paris.
At first, the results were not as good as expected, but we did not give up and continued to exhibit overseas.
In 2014, we received an offer from AMERICAN RAG CIE's LA flagship store, and we have continued to do business with them for the past 7 years.

In recent years, we have been actively collaborating with other brands, releasing sneakers in collaboration with VANS and NEW BALANCE.
They have also developed collections with outdoor brands such as HELINOX, DANNER, and HEIMPLANET, etc.
In 2020, they will hold the brand's first virtual exhibition and are trying out new challenges.

Design Features - Fusion of traditional techniques and innovative design

FDMTL is a one-of-a-kind denim brand known for its high quality denim and creative designs that utilize traditional Japanese craftsmanship.
The brand's most distinctive feature is its modern interpretation of traditional Japanese techniques such as “sashiko” and “boro” and its incorporation of these techniques into denim.
Patchwork and embroidery are done by hand on each item, creating a unique texture.

• Fusion of tradition and modernity
  • Traditional Japanese techniques such as "sashiko" and "boro" are combined with modern silhouettes and details to create a unique atmosphere.
  • For example, sashiko is used not only as a traditional reinforcement technique but also as a decorative element.
  • The patchwork seen in "Boro" is sublimated into a modern design by combining various materials, colors and patterns.
  • This makes FDMTL items unique, combining traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern fashion sense.
• Patchwork:
  • Patchwork, which combines fabrics of various colors and patterns, is one of the typical design elements of FDMTL.
  • Patchwork is used not only for jeans but also for various items such as shirts, jackets and bags.
  • The fabrics used are diverse, such as denim, corduroy, and wool, and by combining them, a deep look is created.
  • The patchwork is handmade one by one, so no two pieces are the same.
• Embroideries:
  • There are many items with delicate hand embroidery such as embroidery, so you can enjoy each item's different expression.
  • Sashiko is a traditional Japanese embroidery technique that originated to enhance the strength of cloth, but FDMTL focuses on its beauty and uses it as a design accent.
  • By changing the color, stitch type and density of the sashiko thread, various expressions are created.
  • In addition to sashiko, items with embroidery such as flower patterns are also available.
• Vintage Processing:
  • The carefully applied vintage treatment creates a texture that looks as if it has been used for many years.
  • FDMTL puts special emphasis on the processing of denim, and uses various techniques such as stone wash, damage processing, and repair processing to reproduce a realistic vintage feel.
  • In addition, the color fading and texture of the fabric have been carefully chosen to express natural aging as if worn for many years.
• Attention to detail:
  • There are details everywhere that combine functionality and design, such as hidden pockets and keelin groups.
  • For example, the jeans have hidden rivets and keelin groups, and are made with great attention to detail.
  • The brand's iconic charm bell is attached to all jeans.
  • These details make FDMTL products more attractive.

Commitment to Materials - The world's finest Okayama selvedge denim

• High quality denim:
  • Made with high-quality denim fabric such as selvedge denim from Okayama Prefecture.
  • Selvage denim is a denim fabric woven on an old-fashioned loom, and features a selvage to prevent fraying at the edges.
  • Okayama Prefecture is a world famous denim production area, and FDMTL carefully selects the highest quality denim fabric.
• Indigo dyeing:
  • The indigo dyeing using natural indigo is attractive because you can enjoy the unique color fading and changes over time.
  • FDMTL also uses fabrics that are dyed using an indigo dyeing technique called "tsukazome," which is particularly time-consuming.
  • Shizome dyeing is characterized by bundling and dyeing the threads, making it difficult for the dye to penetrate to the core of the threads, resulting in a unique unevenness and color fading.
  • Indigo dyeing is one of the main features of FDMTL products and allows you to enjoy the color changes with each wear.
• Diverse materials:
  • Not only denim, but also corduroy and wool are combined to create a richer look.
  • For example, some jackets have a patchwork of corduroy or wool, and the combination of materials increases the range of designs.

Skilled Craftsmanship - Unique texture created by traditional processing techniques

FDMTL products achieve a unique texture through various processing techniques.

• Manual processing:
  • Many processes are done by hand to create a different look for each item.
  • For example, the damage and repair processes are carefully performed by artisans to achieve a natural texture that cannot be reproduced by machines.
• Damage processing:
  • With realistic damage and repair processing, it has a vintage denim-like texture.
  • Damage processing is a technique in which the fabric is intentionally torn or worn to create a long-worn texture.
  • FDMTL offers many damaged jeans and jackets, each with a different damaged finish.
• Wash processing:
  • It has been carefully washed by craftsmen to achieve natural color fading and texture.
  • There are various methods of washing, such as water washing, stone washing, bio washing, etc. FDMTL offers the best wash treatment for each product.
• Aging processing:
  • FDMTL's specialty is the aging process that reproduces color fading and damage as if worn for many years.
  • Aging is a technique that artificially reproduces aging by treating the fabric with chemicals or processing it with special machines.
  • FDMTL is particular about aging treatment to achieve a natural and realistic texture.

Respect for Vintage Jeans and Modern Interpretation - FDMTL's BORO (rag)

FDMTL's "BORO" collection is an artpiece-like collection that revives the traditional Japanese cloth culture of rags. The aesthetic of rags, which has been handed down since ancient times, has been reconstructed with FDMTL's unique interpretation and technology, attracting fashion lovers all over the world.

Rag is a piece of cloth that has been worn and patched together and repaired many times. In the past, they were born out of poverty, but their beauty and spirituality are highly appreciated today. FDMTL focuses on the unique texture of rags and the beauty that changes with time, and expresses its world view on the canvas of denim.

The BORO collection combines various types of denim fabrics like a patchwork and sews them carefully by hand to create a unique look. In addition, traditional techniques such as sashiko and embroidery are incorporated to create a design with more depth.

FDMTL's BORO collection is not just a fashion item, but a work of art to pass on traditional Japanese culture to the present.

FDMTL's diverse collaboration – ever-evolving brand

FDMTL - Collaboration Details

FDMTL has collaborated with many brands. The individuality of each brand and the design of FDMTL combine to create new value.

• VANS:
  • FDMTL has released collaboration sneakers with VANS three times.
  • 2016: Slip-On and Era based collaboration sneakers are released only in Japan. The upper is decorated with indigo dyed patchwork and embroidery, and is filled with FDMTL's typical design elements. As you wear them, the indigo color fades and the fabric tears, so you can enjoy the change over time.
  • 2018: We released a collaboration sneaker based on Authentic and Sk8 Hi. This was sold only in Europe. Using indigo fabric with damage treatment, this item is characterized by attention to detail.
  • 2021: We launched Authentic based collaborative sneakers worldwide. The upper uses jacquard fabric layered with girdle fabric. Each time you wear it, you will be able to enjoy different changes over time, such as torn or discolored fabric.
• NEW BALANCE:
  • In 2020, in collaboration with Chinese sneaker shop COSTS, they released a collaboration sneaker based on New Balance's 2002R. In honor of traditional Japanese denim craftsmanship, this item uses five different textiles. The upper is a pearl weave base with a blue suede overlay, and the tongue and heel are made of two-tone sashiko fabric. There is also a print on the insole, a framed "N" motif on the midfoot, embroidery on the vamp and tongue, New Balance and 2002R prints on the rear, and collaborative brand shoe lace marked with a dash. It also comes with a special shoe box with COSTS signature pattern.
• HELINOX:
  • In 2022, we developed an outdoor collection in collaboration with outdoor brand HELINOX.
    • Tactical Chair: FDMTL's aesthetic of traditional Japanese sashiko fabric and bolo patchwork is incorporated into durable polyester tent fabric and 600D poly fabric.
    • Tactical Table S: A table made of the same material as the Tactical Chair.
    • Sunset Chair: This chair combines the expertise of HELINOX, which supplies tent poles and components to top outdoor brands around the world, with the design of FDMTL.
• DANNER:
  • In 2022, the following items were released in collaboration with the American boot brand DANNER.
    • Indigo Sashiko Boot: boots made of indigo embroidered fabric in various shades. The stitch down method, Vibram sole, steel toe, lace to toe styling, etc. The details of Danner are kept as they are, and the indigo dyeing elements of FDMTL are incorporated. It is also a feature that it is made in Japan.
    • BORO ROLL TOP BAG: A roll top bag that opens wide. The opening can be closed with a magnet, and there is a zippered opening on the side so that you can remove the contents while carrying the bag.
    • BORO TRAVEL POUCH SET: 3 types of pouches, 1 liter, 4 liter and 7 liter. When not in use, the pouch can be folded into a 1 liter pouch and stored.
• HEIMPLANET:
  • In 2022, we collaborated with the German tent brand HEIMPLANET to release a collaborative tent based on The Cave tent. It is made of a traditional Japanese textile "boro" printed material, and expresses the timeless beauty of indigo with age.
• Disney:
  • In 2019, we opened a pop-up store with Disney in Hong Kong. We sold apparel, stuffed animals, headbands, and other products that incorporate traditional Japanese boro patchwork and indigo dyeing techniques.
• Other:
  • In addition to the above, FDMTL collaborates with various brands.
    • master-piece: Collaborates with the bag brand master-piece to release bags. Based on the master-piece standard series, this item has a ragged and denim patchwork pattern typical of FDMTL. The high-precision processing technology achieves greater clarity than conventional printing.
    • Outdoor Products: We collaborate with outdoor brand Outdoor Products to release backpacks. This backpack is made of indigoja card that changes thickness with age.

Standard denim – The more you wear it, the better it becomes.

FDMTL denim is the core of the brand, and its quality and design are highly regarded by denim enthusiasts around the world. Here are FDMTL's standard denim models and their appeal.

Tops

BORO BOMBER JACKET （Indigo） - MA-1 jacket made of jacquard woven indigo fabric

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  FDMTL BORO BOMBER JACKET （Indigo） $‌400.00

BORO COACH JACKET （Indigo） - Coach jacket designed in the motif of boro

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  FDMTL BORO COACH JACKET （Indigo） $‌370.00

DENIM SHIRT 3YR WASH （Indigo） - Denim shirt carefully stitched down to the smallest detail

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  FDMTL DENIM SHIRT 3YR WASH （Indigo） $‌293.00

MEANSWHILE × FDMTL BORO S/S SHIRT （Boro） - Collaboration pullover shirt

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  FDMTL MEANSWHILE × BORO S/S SHIRT （Boro） $‌308.00

PRINTED BORO SHIRT （Boro） - FDMTL's original boro and tattered print

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  FDMTL PRINTED BORO SHIRT （Boro） $‌177.00

PRINTED BORO S/S SHIRT （Boro） - Short-sleeved shirt with digestive transfer print texture

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  FDMTL PRINTED BORO S/S SHIRT （Boro） $‌170.00

Pants

CLASSIC STRAIGHT DENIM CS121 （Indigo） - Denim pants with patchwork everywhere

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  FDMTL CLASSIC STRAIGHT DENIM CS121 （Indigo） $‌385.00

CLASSIC STRAIGHT DENIM CS125 （Indigo） - Classic straight denim pants

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  FDMTL CLASSIC STRAIGHT DENIM CS125 （Indigo） $‌370.00

SLIM FIT DENIM CS126 （Indigo） - Features a slim fit that combines comfort

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  FDMTL SLIM FIT DENIM CS126 （Indigo） $‌370.00

SLIM FIT DENIM CS124 （Indigo） - Red-ear denim with depth and fading

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  FDMTL SLIM FIT DENIM CS124 （Indigo） $‌323.00

Ladies' Items

WOMENS FIT DENIM SHIRT 3YR WASH （Indigo） - Denim shirt with washed finish and patchwork throughout

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  FDMTL WOMENS FIT DENIM SHIRT 3YR WASH （Indigo） $‌293.00

WOMENS FIT FLARE DENIM CIRCLE PATCH （Indigo） - Denim Pants with a generous amount of used and remade processing

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  FDMTL WOMENS FIT FLARE DENIM CIRCLE PATCH （Indigo） $‌346.00

WOMENS FIT FLARE DENIM LIGHT WASH （Indigo） - Attractive flared silhouette with slit design at the hem

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  FDMTL WOMENS FIT FLARE DENIM LIGHT WASH （Indigo） $‌247.00

Bags

master-piece × FDMTL DRAWSTRING BAG （Indigo） - Collaboration shoulder bag

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  FDMTL master-piece × SHOULDER BAG （Indigo） $‌293.00

master-piece × FDMTL SHOULDER BAG （Indigo） - Collaboration Compact Bag

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  FDMTL master-piece × DRAWSTRING BAG （Indigo） $‌162.00

Click here for a list of the products in stock this time

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  FDMTL BORO BOMBER JACKET （Indigo） $‌400.00
• 
  FDMTL BORO COACH JACKET （Indigo） $‌370.00
• 
  FDMTL DENIM SHIRT 3YR WASH （Indigo） $‌293.00
• 
  FDMTL MEANSWHILE × BORO S/S SHIRT （Boro） $‌308.00
• 
  FDMTL PRINTED BORO SHIRT （Boro） $‌177.00
• 
  FDMTL PRINTED BORO S/S SHIRT （Boro） $‌170.00
• 
  FDMTL CLASSIC STRAIGHT DENIM CS121 （Indigo） $‌385.00
• 
  FDMTL CLASSIC STRAIGHT DENIM CS125 （Indigo） $‌370.00
• 
  FDMTL SLIM FIT DENIM CS126 （Indigo） $‌370.00
• 
  FDMTL SLIM FIT DENIM CS124 （Indigo） $‌323.00
• 
  FDMTL WOMENS FIT DENIM SHIRT 3YR WASH （Indigo） $‌293.00
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  FDMTL WOMENS FIT FLARE DENIM CIRCLE PATCH （Indigo） $‌346.00
• 
  FDMTL WOMENS FIT FLARE DENIM LIGHT WASH （Indigo） $‌247.00
• 
  FDMTL master-piece × SHOULDER BAG （Indigo） $‌293.00
• 
  FDMTL master-piece × DRAWSTRING BAG （Indigo） $‌162.00

FDMTL 25SS / Click here to see the list of recommended products

• 
  FDMTL BORO BOMBER JACKET （Indigo） $‌400.00
• 
  FDMTL BORO COACH JACKET （Indigo） $‌370.00
• 
  FDMTL DENIM SHIRT 3YR WASH （Indigo） $‌293.00
• 
  FDMTL MEANSWHILE × BORO S/S SHIRT （Boro） $‌308.00
• 
  FDMTL PRINTED BORO SHIRT （Boro） $‌177.00
• 
  FDMTL PRINTED BORO S/S SHIRT （Boro） $‌170.00
• 
  FDMTL CLASSIC STRAIGHT DENIM CS121 （Indigo） $‌385.00
• 
  FDMTL CLASSIC STRAIGHT DENIM CS125 （Indigo） $‌370.00
• 
  FDMTL SLIM FIT DENIM CS126 （Indigo） $‌370.00
• 
  FDMTL SLIM FIT DENIM CS124 （Indigo） $‌323.00
• 
  FDMTL WOMENS FIT DENIM SHIRT 3YR WASH （Indigo） $‌293.00
• 
  FDMTL WOMENS FIT FLARE DENIM CIRCLE PATCH （Indigo） $‌346.00
• 
  FDMTL WOMENS FIT FLARE DENIM LIGHT WASH （Indigo） $‌247.00
• 
  FDMTL master-piece × SHOULDER BAG （Indigo） $‌293.00
• 
  FDMTL master-piece × DRAWSTRING BAG （Indigo） $‌162.00

Click here for a list of FDMTL products