A detailed comparison of the two new trouser styles from JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE: Coated Cloth and Cavalry Twill. Both are rooted in workwear, yet each features unique appeal brought out by differences in fabric.
In this article, we’ll dive into their characteristics and highlights in depth.

Introduction: Jan-Jan Van Essche Trousers

Jan-Jan Van Essche is a visionary designer based in Antwerp, Belgium, and has earned acclaim among fashion-conscious audiences for his unique approach. His brand philosophy centers around genderless, relaxed silhouettes and the concept that “the body shapes the garment.” Deeply rooted in Antwerp’s rich culture—steeped in punk and art—his style also emphasizes slow fashion values and a strong commitment to natural materials.

This feature focuses on two variations of the TROUSERS #84 released in the Spring/Summer 2025 (25SS) collection by Jan-Jan Van Essche. While both share a common foundation in workwear style and a six-pocket design, they are crafted from two distinct fabrics: Coated Cloth and Cavalry Twill. The key lies in how these different materials impact their appearance, functionality, and styling versatility. As with Jan-Jan Van Essche’s past trousers, both models showcase the brand’s signature relaxed and elegant silhouette, along with precisely calculated detailing. This article delves into the unique worlds these two fabrics create.

Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers – A Deep Dive into the Charm of Coated Cloth

Coated Cloth is one of the standout materials in this season’s JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE trousers lineup. While the base fabric is 100% cotton, it’s treated with a special coating that provides wind resistance, a structured firmness, and a distinctive semi-gloss finish. The color “tar black” is particularly striking—evoking the depth and richness of tar, with a subtle sheen that elevates the trousers beyond rugged workwear into a realm of refined, modern aesthetics. This fusion of utility and elegance captures the essence of Jan-Jan Van Essche design philosophy.

While coated fabrics are often associated with a stiff or rigid feel, the Coated Cloth used by JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE offers a softer, more personal experience that evolves over time. With repeated wear, the material gradually molds to the body, developing unique creases and a sheen reminiscent of waxed finishes—an aging process that lends a vintage-like character. This richly expressive texture perfectly aligns with the brand’s philosophy of “the body shaping the garment,” making it a material that deepens in charm the longer it's worn.

What Is Coated Cloth? Artisan Heritage and Historical Significance

Coated Cloth has long been cherished in regions like the UK and Japan—often seen in the form of waxed cotton used for workwear and military outerwear. However, under the creative direction of JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE, this historically utilitarian material is elevated into something far more artistic. By incorporating artisan-level coating techniques and natural dyeing approaches, the fabric takes on a nuanced and expressive character far beyond its functional roots. In some cases, each piece receives its final touches by hand at the brand’s Antwerp studio, emphasizing a low-volume, high-craft production ethos. This hands-on, small-batch creation process gives every garment a distinct presence, reinforcing the brand’s commitment to thoughtful, slow fashion.

Coated Cloth Through the Senses: Functionality Meets Aesthetic

From a visual standpoint, the Coated Cloth impresses with its densely saturated black hue and understated sheen that subtly shifts with the angle of light. To the touch, it presents an initial crispness that hints at structure, yet moves with a supple fluidity. While the fabric may feel firm when new, repeated wear and washing gradually soften it, allowing the garment to contour uniquely to its wearer—offering the delight of developing a personalized patina over time. In terms of functionality, the material offers a modest level of windproofing and water repellency, making it practical for light rain or brisk weather. This thoughtful balance between sensory richness and everyday usability is what makes JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE Coated Cloth truly special.

Coated Cloth Seen Through the Eyes of Buyers and Staff

From the perspective of buyers and staff, Coated Cloth stands out as a truly distinctive fabric—perfect for those seeking trousers that make a subtle yet impactful statement. While many brands offer workwear-inspired pants, few match the level of material refinement found here. The oversized, wide silhouette paired with the coated fabric’s signature sheen and crisp structure creates a striking presence. What makes it even more special is the way it evolves over time—softening and molding to the wearer, a trait that's difficult for other brands to replicate. This is what makes it a one-of-a-kind piece in any wardrobe.

In-Depth Look at the Appeal of the Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers – Cavalry Twill

Cavalry Twill is a fabric with roots in military heritage—originally used for cavalry uniforms and gear. Its defining characteristic is its pronounced diagonal weave (twilled ribs), which gives it notable structure, durability, and resistance to wrinkling. Compared to standard twill, it’s thicker and more robust, holding its shape well through wear. For the 2025SS season, JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE elevates this classic material by blending ramie and cotton, resulting in a breathable yet structured fabric. The outcome is a refined textile that’s strong enough for utilitarian use yet elegant enough for summer tailoring. Whether styled casually or incorporated into a more dressed-up look, this version of Cavalry Twill strikes an ideal balance between function and quiet sophistication.

This season's "grey mele" color—a subtle heathered grey—adds a refined nuance that enhances the texture of the fabric while giving off a calm, composed impression. Compared to the Coated Cloth version, it feels more polished and is easier to incorporate into formal looks. It also complements the breezy feel of spring and summer styling. While maintaining workwear-inspired detailing, the trousers offer both structure and flexibility, making them versatile for a wide range of outfits. Additionally, Cavalry Twill inherent breathability and abrasion resistance provide excellent comfort and long-lasting durability.

What is Cavalry Twill? A Fabric That Weaves Tradition and Modernity

Originally developed for military uniforms, Cavalry Twill is known for its durability and structured weave. In the hands of JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE, however, this traditionally tough material is reimagined with an artisan-style blend to enhance breathability and flexibility. Adjusted to a “just-right” weight, it becomes perfectly suitable for summer suiting. Despite its military roots, the fabric exudes a refined and contemporary elegance, making it an ideal choice for sophisticated yet functional spring/summer styling.

A Scientific and Sensory Look at Cavalry Twill

At the fiber level, Cavalry Twill is composed of natural materials like ramie and cotton, creating a breathable fabric that stays cool against the skin. In terms of texture, it’s slightly firmer than typical cotton twill, which contributes to its resistance to deformation and allows it to maintain a refined silhouette over time. Its strength against friction also means it’s less prone to fraying or damage, even with repeated wear and washing—making it a highly durable and reliable material.

Buyer/Staff Perspective on the Potential of Cavalry Twill

Now that we’ve explored the distinct characteristics of both Coated Cloth and Cavalry Twill, how different are they really? In this section, we’ll organize the basic specifications of each fabric and provide a comparative look at their differences and similarities—offering a clearer understanding of their respective strengths and potential from both a stylistic and functional point of view.

Basic Specs & Comparison: Differences and Similarities Between Coated Cloth and Cavalry Twill

We’ve taken a close look at the individual characteristics of Coated Cloth and Cavalry Twill, but how different are they really in practice?
Here, we’ll summarize the key specifications of each material and provide a side-by-side comparison to highlight both their differences and shared qualities.

Basic Specs: Coated Cloth

Product Name: Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers - Coated Cloth
Model No.: TROUSERS 84
Color: Tar Black
Size Range: S, M, L
Material: Cotton
Country of Origin: Lithuania
Price: $‌780.00 (tax included)

Basic Specs: Cavalry Twill

Product Name: Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers - Cavalry Twill
Model No.: TROUSERS 84
Color: Grey Mele
Size Range: S, M, L
Material: Ramie, Cotton
Country of Origin: Lithuania
Price: $‌780.00 (tax included)

Comparison: Differences and Similarities Between Coated Cloth and Cavalry Twill

What both share is Jan-Jan Van Essche core philosophy: “pants that gain character over time and become beloved through long-term use.” Coated Cloth develops unique creases and color variations that deepen its expression, while Cavalry Twill maintains its shape and offers a more subdued, graceful aging process.
Although both are oversized pants in the same TROUSERS #84 workwear style, they differ in surface sheen, drape, care requirements, and the overall impression when worn—which makes them all the more interesting. Coated Cloth offers a tough texture that evolves beautifully with age, along with functional benefits such as water resistance and wind protection. In contrast, Cavalry Twill stands out for its more classic and refined feel, making it suitable for formal styling and particularly comfortable for summer wear. Whichever you choose, these are not fast fashion pieces meant to be consumed and discarded—they’re wardrobe staples designed to last a lifetime.

Staff Wear Test Report: Lightness, Mobility, and Mood

Many staff members noted that Coated Cloth feels slightly stiff at first and can restrict movement a little, but once it breaks in, it becomes surprisingly comfortable. In contrast, Cavalry Twill is praised for its softness right from the start and stands out for its light, breezy feel. Both pants feature an oversized wide silhouette that allows for excellent mobility, but it's fascinating how the different fabric properties subtly affect the wearer's mood and movement.

Styling Suggestions: Enjoy Jan-Jan Van Essche Pants in Two Distinct Fabrics

The TROUSERS #84, with its wide silhouette and distinctive six-pocket design, shines even more when styled to highlight its unique form.
Here, we introduce two styling examples for each fabric type, showcasing how to bring out the best in both versions. Use these as inspiration for your own looks.

Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers - Coated Cloth

・Sophisticated Coat Jacket Look with a Seasoned Flair
First up is a refined style featuring a coat jacket with a sharp silhouette that exudes seasoned sophistication.
Layered underneath is a digitally printed shirt that adds visual depth and an elevated sense of style. To bring cohesion and structure to the overall muted color palette, a belt with a distinctive textured fabric is added—subtly anchoring the look while enhancing its presence.
For footwear, heavy leather boots are chosen to add weight and shine, amplifying the luxurious tone.
Finally, the addition of uniquely styled eyewear introduces a modern edge, completing the look with a mature, high-fashion atmosphere.

・Relaxed Yet Refined: Short-Sleeve Shirt Summer Style
Next up is a short-sleeve shirt look that strikes a perfect balance between summer lightness and modern edge.
The inherent ease of a short-sleeve shirt brings a breezy, relaxed feel to the outfit, ideal for warmer days. A tone-on-tone fabric belt subtly adds a layer of individuality, while leather sandals introduce just the right amount of grounding weight and texture.
To finish, a distinctively designed shoulder bag acts as a stylish accent—injecting quiet personality into the ensemble. The result is a summer style that feels both effortlessly casual and thoughtfully polished.

Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers - Cavalry Twill

・Artisan-Inspired Style Highlighting Unique Textures
First up is an artisan-inspired look that emphasizes depth of material and handcrafted feel.
The textured fabric of the jacket layered over a striped shirt creates a rich interplay of surfaces, allowing the wearer’s individuality to shine through with a distinct, expressive aesthetic.
A simple drawstring belt is added to subtly reshape the silhouette, tying the look together with an elegant finish. For footwear, leather sandals were chosen to intentionally reveal some skin—adding lightness to the bottom half.
Finally, by incorporating oversized shoulder bags and distinctive eyewear as accessories, the outfit further deepens its artisan sensibility, culminating in a styling that exudes uniqueness and quiet confidence.

・Spring Style with a Touch of Classic Elegance
The next styling features a classic-inspired jacket paired with a vintage-toned T-shirt, striking a perfect balance that conveys springtime lightness with an air of refined sophistication.
A textured drawstring belt adds depth to the soft color palette and crisp silhouette, subtly sharpening the entire look.
Heavy leather boots ground the outfit with a sense of gravity, enhancing the traditional mood with understated presence.
To complete the ensemble, distinctive eyewear is added as an accent, maintaining cohesion while lending a touch of personal flair to this classically polished spring styling.

Choosing the Right Size: Flattering Silhouette and Effortless Styling

JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE trousers are designed with a loose fit as standard, but preferences can vary—some may want a more relaxed feel, while others prefer a slightly neater silhouette. One of the key advantages of the TROUSERS #84 model is its combination of a drawstring and belt loops, which allows for generous waist adjustment. Depending on which size you choose in relation to your body type, the overall impression and styling outcome can shift significantly.

Generally, the recommended approach is to choose either your true size or one size up, allowing you to adjust the waist position to your preference while fully utilizing the volume toward the hem—a classic styling method. Opting for a larger size and cinching the waist gives you more fluid drape and dynamic movement. On the other hand, selecting your true size helps prevent excessive bagginess around the legs, creating a cleaner, more refined silhouette with a modern, mode-inspired feel.

Official Size Chart and How to Measure Correctly

Most product pages and brand websites include size charts listing measurements such as waist and inseam, so be sure to check them carefully. If you plan to wear a belt, consider choosing a size with a bit of extra room beyond your exact measurements. For length, it’s best to adjust based on the balance with your footwear.

Fit Differences by Fabric: How Material Affects the Look

Coated Cloth has a firmer texture, which helps the silhouette hold its shape and creates a more structured, voluminous look overall. In contrast, Cavalry Twill is more flexible and offers a softer drape, often appearing slightly slimmer. Choosing your size based on the style you want to achieve will help you avoid missteps.

【Must-Read】Detailed Staff Fitting Comments: Finding the Best Fit by Body Type

Staff A (Height: 175cm / Average build): Coated Cloth in size M offers a slightly relaxed fit, emphasizing the workwear vibe. Cavalry Twill in the same size M feels more refined and structured, with a calmer silhouette.

Staff B (Height: 165cm / Slightly slender build): Both fabrics fit well in size S, but the Coated Cloth has a deeper rise, so when worn casually it sits higher on the waist, enhancing the overall mode aesthetic.

Staff C (Height: 180cm / Broad build): Chose size L. The initial stiffness of the Coated Cloth provides a sense of security and gradually molds to the body with wear. The Cavalry Twill, on the other hand, feels light and comfortable from the beginning and pairs well with tailored jackets.

Peace of Mind After Purchase: Care Instructions and Support System Explained

If you're worried about post-purchase concerns like “How do I care for it?”, “Can I exchange the size?”, or “Where can I get repairs done?”, rest assured. At FASCINATE online store and physical locations (Osaka & Kyoto), we offer attentive after-sales support. With proper care, both fabrics age beautifully and can be enjoyed for years. Knowing how to maintain and access support services allows you to wear your JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE trousers with confidence.

Care Guide by Fabric: How to Keep Your Trousers in Great Condition

- **Coated Cloth**: Hand wash in cold water, or use a laundry net and select the delicate cycle if using a washing machine. Always air dry in the shade—avoid direct sunlight and high heat to preserve the coating and delay deterioration.

- **Cavalry Twill**: Machine washable with a laundry net. Be careful not to use excessive spin-drying, and when ironing, use medium heat for best results. Both fabrics are relatively wrinkle-resistant, making daily care easier.

Returns, Exchanges, and Repairs Policy

At FASCINATE, we accept returns and exchanges within a specified period even for online purchases, provided the item is unused and the tags remain attached (certain conditions apply). In case of fraying or damage, we also offer repair consultations. Even if repairs need to be sent to JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE in Belgium, our staff will assist you throughout the process for a smooth experience.

Purchase Support by Fashion Specialists (Style Consultations Welcome)

Whether online or in-store, you can receive free advice on fabric texture, sizing, and more from our experienced staff. If you're unsure about the silhouette, feel free to send a photo—we’re happy to assist with styling consultations as well. This service is ideal for those who want to invest in high-end trousers with confidence and enjoy them for years to come.

Summary: Discover New Styling with Coated Cloth and Cavalry Twill

We’ve explored the characteristics, advantages, and selection tips for both fabrics. To summarize: if you prioritize toughness, water resistance, and the appeal of aging with wear, Coated Cloth tar black is for you. If you value a more formal, refined mode aesthetic and cool comfort for summer, Cavalry Twill grey mele is the better fit. Whichever you choose, both offer JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE signature wide silhouette and meticulous craftsmanship—opening the door to a new dimension of style.

Reason Why JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE Offers These Two Fabrics: A Harmony of Function and Beauty

JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE is a brand that reinterprets traditional workwear and military elements through an artisan’s lens and the philosophy of Yukkuri. The brand makes no compromises in material development, offering the same design in distinctly different fabrics to tell new stories through fashion. By quietly blending function and beauty, past and present, Japan and Belgium, the brand achieves a rare and profound presence—this delicate balance is the essence of JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE.

Choose with Confidence—Elevate Your Style

Whichever you choose, you’re guaranteed a pair of trousers you’ll live with for years to come. If you're unsure, try them on or speak with our staff for guidance. Both Coated Cloth and Cavalry Twill hold the potential to elevate your style to the next level. No matter which you select, you're sure to discover a piece you’ll never regret owning.

Purchase & Inquiry: JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE Online Shopping Guide

Our online store offers a wide selection of the latest JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE items, including the featured Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers - Coated Cloth and Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers - Cavalry Twill.
Check the catalog below for real-time updates on available sizes and colors. If you have any questions before purchasing, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

We also offer personalized advice based on feedback from staff who have actually tried on the items, so even if you feel a bit uncertain about purchasing online, you can shop with confidence.

View the full JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE collection here:

If you're interested in exploring more pieces from JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE, please check the product lineup from the link below.

Benefits of Shopping with Us: Reliable Support & In-Store Experience

In addition to our online store, we also operate physical shops in Osaka and Kyoto.
For those who want to see and feel the material in person or try on the coat before deciding, we highly recommend visiting our stores.
Our knowledgeable staff will be happy to assist you, offering detailed guidance on fit, fabric, and styling to ensure a satisfying purchase experience.

In-Store Visit Information (Osaka & Kyoto)

At our Osaka store, you can try on and experience firsthand both the Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers - Coated Cloth and the Oversized 6-Pocket Workwear Style Trousers - Cavalry Twill. Feel the texture, check the drape and weight of each fabric, and find the size that best suits your styling needs with guidance from our knowledgeable staff.

Pre- and Post-Purchase Support from Knowledgeable Staff

Whether you’re seeking size guidance or styling advice before purchasing, or have questions about care and maintenance after your purchase, feel free to reach out anytime. Our team, well-versed in JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE, is here to fully support your fashion journey with expert insights and attentive service.

Return & Exchange Policy for Online Orders

If the following conditions are met, we accept returns and exchanges of unused items within 7 days from the shipping date:

1) The product tags have not been removed
2) The original packaging (bags, boxes) is not damaged or missing
3) No shipping labels are affixed directly onto shoe boxes or product boxes

Please note: Returns due to customer preference are not accepted for in-store purchases. For both online and in-store purchases, feel free to contact us in advance if you have any questions—we’ll be happy to provide detailed guidance.

Contact Us Online

For purchases through our online store or stock availability inquiries, feel free to reach out anytime.