Today, we will be introducing a refined casual coordination built around a classic Chester coat from Ann Demeulemeester, available at FASCINATE_THE R (Shinsaibashi, Osaka).
In this article, we will explain how the current Creative Director, Stefano Gallici’s design approach is reflected in this season’s items, while also touching on the positioning of the brand’s signature pieces and HIGH COMFORT line. We will go into detail on the newly arrived items as well, so please enjoy the article to the end.

Creative Director Stefano Gallici’s Design Approach

The current Creative Director is Stefano Gallici.
After graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, he worked under Haider Ackermann and others before joining Ann Demeulemeester in 2020 as a menswear designer.

Gallici’s approach deeply respects the brand DNA established by the founder Ann Demeulemeester (poetry, androgyny, dark romanticism, the coexistence of strength and fragility), while reinterpreting it through sharper and more direct energy inspired by subcultures such as rock, grunge, and punk.

He specializes in elongated silhouettes inspired by the brand’s traditional grunge/rock roots, and while inheriting androgynous tailoring, he is particularly adept at sharp suits and coats with a cinched waist that create silhouettes with tension.

Brand Terminology: Signature Items and HIGH COMFORT

1. Naming System for Signature Models

Names such as "Leonard", "Ollie", "Ronald", and "Danny" all refer to signature models.

At Ann Demeulemeester, these names are assigned to specific cuts or fits of items.

Each season, the fabric, color, or seasonal print and processing may change, but the models continue to be released with updates.

"HIGH COMFORT" is not a separate diffusion line, but a cross-category design approach that adapts Ann Demeulemeester’s avant-garde aesthetic for everyday wear, using high-quality materials and relaxed silhouettes to maximize comfort.

AW25 Coordination Featuring a Chester Coat

Model 181cm / 58kg. Wearing sizes: Coat / 46, Hoodie / S, Pants / 46, Shoes / 43

A Minimal and Elegant Chester Coat

A long-length Chester coat with a clean and elegant appearance formed by subtle waist tapering and a deep center vent.

The brand’s signature grosgrain ribbon accents are placed in key areas, expressing a quiet presence.

The overall minimal and refined design and pattern work fully bring out the coat’s appeal, resulting in a sophisticated and minimalist piece.

The deep center vent reduces tension at the back while walking or sitting and prevents the hem from catching, ensuring comfortable mobility and ventilation, especially when seated or accessing pockets.

The fabric uses Italian wool.

The wool fibers’ three-dimensional crimp provides natural stretch and recovery, maintaining a crisp, clean appearance over time.

The fine air layers held inside the fibers balance insulation and breathability, resulting in a comfortable feel even in winter without trapping excess heat.

The smooth drape and refined hand texture further emphasize the garment’s structural beauty.

【Deep Dive】The Signature "Leonard" Style

This coat belongs to the lineage of the brand’s signature tailored coats/jackets known as "Leonard."

It features a long-length Chester silhouette crafted from high-quality Italian wool, with a slender minimalist form and a subtly shaped waist that embodies the brand’s dark and romantic aesthetic. It is one of the most iconic outerwear pieces representing Ann Demeulemeester.

Relevance to AW25: In the AW25 collection, elongated brushed-wool suits, the "modern vagabond" theme, and organic draping inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe’s works and the landscapes of New Mexico were key elements. The "Leonard" coat serves as a foundational model reflecting these themes through material texture and drape.

Hoodie Featuring the Brand’s Signature Feather Motif

A hoodie featuring the brand’s symbolic feather motif, intentionally illustrated with a distressed texture.

The voluminous hood and long drawstrings create natural drape and shadow across the front, enhancing the presence of the graphic.

The silhouette features a relaxed fit with dropped shoulders.

While retaining volume in the body width, the length is set to cover the waist and hips, ensuring the vertical lines remain clean whether worn alone or layered.

The material uses the High Comfort line’s signature high-quality cotton jersey, offering a soft touch and moderate thickness that moves naturally with the body.

Additionally, each piece is carefully constructed by skilled artisans in Portugal, with craftsmanship evident in every detail.

【Deep Dive】Signature "Ollie" & "Infinite Feathers" Motif

This hoodie is the signature hoodie model "Ollie." As part of the "High Comfort" approach, it uses high-quality cotton jersey. It features an oversized hood and the brand’s signature long drawstrings. The silhouette is relaxed.

"Infinite Feathers" — feathers and doves — have been among the most important motifs since the brand’s founding, symbolizing poetry, freedom, and peace.

Relevance to AW25: Creative Director Gallici frequently uses the feather motif, demonstrating his reinterpretation of the brand’s DNA. "Infinite Feathers" translates this core motif into the signature "Ollie" hoodie as a graphical expression.

Wallet with Detachable Strap

A wallet featuring a detachable and length-adjustable long strap.

The decoration is restrained and minimal, while silver-tone eyelets and rings add subtle shine.

As the leather is used over time, a delicate sheen develops on the surface, and patina grows in response to natural oils and friction, allowing the minimalist form to gain character through aging.

Trousers Featuring a Straight Silhouette and Wide-Cut Design

These trousers are based on a classic pocket placement, featuring grosgrain ribbon added to the belt loops.

The silhouette is high-waisted with straight wide legs.

The design emphasizes the vertical line, making the waist appear higher and visually enhancing the length and beauty of the legs.

The combination of the straight silhouette and the long length allows the fabric to fall in a smooth, planar way, creating a minimal and refined drape.

Made from 100% Italian cotton denim.

A smooth full lining improves movement between layers, maintaining a comfortable feel against the skin even in autumn and winter seasons.

The combination of the grosgrain accents, the texture of the material, and the balanced proportions creates a piece that successfully merges practicality and design intention.

【Item Deep Dive】The Standard "Ronald" Fit

These trousers are associated with the philosophy of "Ronald," one of the standard fits for five-pocket jeans.

"Ronald" typically features non-stretch denim with a relaxed fit throughout, resulting in a loose and comfortable silhouette. Depending on the model, some variations may include detachable grosgrain tape straps, as seen in this piece.

Relation to AW25: One of the themes of AW25 is "Transformation," with designer Stefano Gallici referencing the way a favorite pair of denim evolves and changes over time. The standard "Ronald" fit reflects this theme of wandering and transformation embodied in AW25.

Brand’s Classic Lace-Up Ankle Boots

These ankle boots feature the brand’s signature refined lace-up design, making them visually striking.

The wide and relaxed fit provides comfort, while the streamlined front maintains a subtle presence. The matte black finish gives them a chic, understated impression.

They pair well with skinny or tapered trousers as well.

【Item Deep Dive】The Standard "Danny" Ankle Boots

These boots are one of the brand’s most iconic standard ankle-boot styles, known as "Danny."

They are made from calf leather with a buffed finish that reduces shine, and they include an inner zipper for practicality. The key design characteristic is the wrap-around lacing, where the laces encircle the ankle, producing a unique volume and evoking a distinctly rock and punk feel.

Relation to AW25: The AW25 collection has been described as the ultimate rock show, with the theme of a modern wanderer. The inherently rock-infused "Danny" boot aligns perfectly with this concept. For AW25, it has been updated using key seasonal materials such as distressed shearling and worn-in textured leather, reflecting the mood of the season.

Full Outfit Photo Gallery

Model: 181cm / 58kg. Worn sizes: Coat / 46, Hoodie / S, Pants / 46, Shoes / 43

We also carry many other items in-store. Please feel free to visit us at FASCINATE_THE R. We look forward to welcoming you.

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