Today, we introduce the LUCIUS SLIM FIT DECONSTRUCTED JACKET from Ann Demeulemeester, available at FASCINATE THE_R (Shinsaibashi, Osaka).

An Aura of Elegance and Decadence Unique to the Maison

This piece directly embodies the philosophy of Ann Demeulemeester, capturing an elegant yet somewhat decadent atmosphere. The primary allure lies in its unique pattern design, incorporating "deconstructed" elements as suggested by the name, and a fabric texture rich in character. Unlike conventional tailored jackets, the brand’s signature cutting and the natural drape of the fabric are meticulously calculated to create beautiful movement with every step.

A Perfectly Balanced Silhouette with Visual Ribbon Accents

The overall form is constructed with an exquisite balance—neither oversized nor extremely slim. Designed to follow the lines of the body while maintaining moderate room, it preserves the sharp integrity of a tailored jacket while allowing the fabric to sway naturally and beautifully during movement.

The most striking feature of the piece is the long grosgrain ribbon hanging from the lapel's flower hole. This ribbon dances with every movement, serving as a visual accent that emphasizes the brand’s specific mood. Furthermore, unique component configurations worthy of the "deconstructed" moniker are integrated throughout, such as irregular button placement and intentionally pronounced pocket dimensions.

The Fusion of Classical Romance and 1970s Rebellious Spirit

The SS26 collection, "The Solitary One: A Love Story in Rebellion," helmed by Creative Director Stefano Gallici, explores the collision and fusion of classical romance and the rebellious spirit of the 1970s. The world-building of the collection overlaps two distinct eras: the 19th-century social conventions of Jane Austen’s *Pride and Prejudice* and the decadent 1970s rock-and-leather scene depicted in Danny Sugerman’s *Wonderland Avenue*.

Rebellious Romanticism Born from Empathy for "The Solitary One"

While the LUCIUS jacket draws inspiration from these two disparate narratives, Gallici’s own roots in punk rock and childhood memories of basketball courts also flow through its design. Based on a classic single-button tailored jacket, it features hidden buttons behind the lapel, allowing it to be transformed into a stand-collar garment. This intentionally breaks the concept of traditional formal wear, showcasing the brand's signature deconstructive approach.

Despite its structured and dressy appearance with power shoulders, internal padding and secondary materials have been minimized to achieve a relaxed feel and a sharp silhouette simultaneously. At its core is an empathy and love for "The Solitary One"—those who distance themselves from victory or uniformity. Gallici’s essence of creation is not to destroy rules for the sake of rebellion, but to create a style for emotional expression, reflecting his goal of making people dream through the brand.

Crushed Velvet: Deep Shadows and Unexpected Lightness

The LUCIUS jacket utilizes a velvet fabric composed of 75% rayon and 25% nylon. Contrary to its heavy, dressy appearance, the fabric is finished with a slight thinness, providing a dry touch and a lightweight wearing experience. Furthermore, this velvet undergoes a "crush" process, where the pile is intentionally pressed in irregular directions. This creates a random texture that produces a lustrous sheen and deep, three-dimensional shadows upon light reflection.

A Supple, Languid Texture that Softens Tailored Tension

While it remains a tailored jacket, the fabric possesses a moderate, lived-in softness. The surface reflects light elegantly, creating sophisticated shadows that shift with the wearer's movement. In expressing the "deconstructed" approach, the brand intentionally chose supple materials over rigid fabrics. This synergy between design and material creates a sense of "nuke" (effortlessness), a refined technique that only this maison can master.

Versatile Styling with Irregular Buttoning and Functional Details

The front features a single-button specification, yet two buttons are hidden behind the lapel. Fastening these transforms the piece into a stand-collar jacket, a deconstructive detail typical of Ann Demeulemeester that expands the range of styling possibilities.

The front is equipped with slightly oversized flap waist pockets and a welt chest pocket, balancing functionality and design at a high level. The lining consists of a matte fabric made of rayon/cotton and pure cotton. The back is finished with a center vent, ensuring a meticulous design down to the finest details.

Sophisticated Beauty at Rest and a Dynamic Silhouette in Motion

While the jacket exudes an elegant and dressy aura on the hanger, the supple fabric naturally conforms to the body's lines once worn. Despite the heavy visual impression, it is relatively light and does not hinder shoulder or arm movement, making it a highly wearable piece.

Gravitational Lines and Expression Changing with Buttoning

Due to the use of soft, supple fabric, the jacket creates a beautiful vertical line as it falls under gravity when walking. Even during motion or turning, the exquisite silhouette remains intact, showing natural and graceful movement as the fabric catches the air.

The vibe also changes depending on whether the irregular front buttons are fastened or left open. Closing them emphasizes the sophisticated drape, while wearing it open allows for more fabric movement, creating a more relaxed, effortless feel. It is a multi-faceted item that possesses both refined beauty at rest and dynamic charm in motion.

Styling Through "Subtraction" Balancing Individuality and Effortlessness

While the jacket possesses the brand's unique aura, pairing it with slacks or wide trousers for a clean look is a classic recommendation. Conversely, pairing it with well-worn denim or seasonal shorts moderates the jacket's formality, creating an appropriately relaxed aesthetic.

Highlighting the Jacket’s Presence with Minimalist Layers

Since the jacket itself has a distinct presence, we recommend pairing it with minimalist items like plain shirts or simple knits. By incorporating "subtraction" via normcore elements, the jacket's design becomes even more prominent while remaining grounded for the street. For footwear, boots or leather shoes are the standard choice to match the elegance, but sneakers or slip-ons can also be used to add a rough edge depending on the destination.

Staff Fit and Silhouette Changes

For a staff member standing 180cm and weighing 58kg wearing size 46, the shoulders fit perfectly while the chest and arms have a comfortable amount of room. It achieves a stylish look without being overly loose. Though available in a specific size range, it is designed with an exquisite fit that suits many body types. Fastening the buttons sharpens the torso, while leaving them open provides a liberating, airy feel.

The "Patina" of Time and Delicate Material Care

This jacket already possesses deep, three-dimensional shadows and luster from the start, but for the brand, "new" does not mean "finished." A garment is considered complete only after the wearer has used it for a long time and it acquires a "patina." The crushed velvet is delicate; with repeated wear, areas of high friction may see the pile settle, subtly changing its expression. For care, avoid water and opt for dry cleaning. Use a thick hanger and allow the garment to breathe in a well-ventilated space to enjoy its beautiful texture for years to come.

Inquiries / Item List

Details of the items introduced today and the full brand collection can be found at the link below.
Ann Demeulemeester LUCIUS SLIM FIT DECONSTRUCTED JACKET

You can also try this piece on at FASCINATE THE_R (Shinsaibashi, Osaka).
We look forward to your visit and inquiries.