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Today, from the DEVOA 26SS collection, we would like to introduce the "Loose Fit Shirt Hybrid Wool" and "Loose Fit Shirt Linen / Silk Vintage Wash," two pieces that share the same pattern but are crafted through completely different approaches.
DEVOA's shirts share a common characteristic: regardless of the silhouette, they ultimately exude elegance.
When we actually tried them on at the exhibition, we were convinced that they would become a piece we naturally reach for on a daily basis.
This season's new arrivals strike an exceptionally high-level balance between a relaxed, effortless feel and refined dignity.
Meticulous Pattern Making That Maintains Elegance in an Oversized Fit
The first thing that catches the eye is the relaxed silhouette with almost no waist suppression.
While it outwardly appears to be a very simple and basic regular collar shirt, its structure incorporates DEVOA's signature advanced pattern-making technology.
The shoulder area adopts a drop shoulder to soften any rigid impression, and the sleeves are constructed from three parts.
By placing darts at the elbows, it firmly secures a three-dimensional form around the arms and an ample range of motion.
An Inverted Triangle Structure That Eliminates Bulk Under the Arms
While based on a loose fit with a wide body width, it is designed so that the entire garment forms a three-dimensional inverted triangle by utilizing the underarm cut to gently taper towards the hem.
With such a wide body, fabric usually bunches up under the arms, often looking clumsy, but that is not the case with this shirt.
The length is intentionally set a bit short, making it designed to balance perfectly with any bottom shape, from wide pants to slim pants.
As designer Mr. Nishida describes it as a "presentation of research results," the approach of how to construct simply is beautifully reflected here.
Double-Layered Structure Preventing Transparency and Buttons with Vintage Wash Appeal
The details are also packed with features that combine practicality and design.
For the front, it features snap buttons expressing a vintage finish—as if the paint has peeled or rusted from years of use.
These vintage-style components provide a perfect accent to the shirt's neat expression.
Furthermore, the front body features a double-layered fabric specification, preventing transparency when worn directly over bare skin during the spring and summer seasons.
The overlapping fabric also helps the front silhouette drape beautifully, a thoughtful touch that enhances wearability.
REDA Super 120's: Hybrid Wool Emitting Direct Elegance
From here, we will delve into the two types of fabrics used.
First is the "Hybrid Wool" model.
This fabric utilizes Super 120's Merino Wool from the prestigious Italian manufacturer, REDA.
REDA is a top manufacturer supporting luxury maisons worldwide with its sustainable production background and technology that fuses high-tech functions into natural materials.
Using the extremely fine and high-quality Super 120's yarn, the prickly sensation typical of wool is completely absent.
It features a fine, understated luster, and a drape and flexibility that makes it hard to believe it is 100% wool.
Hairline and Plaid Expressions Lurking in Khaki
It is available in two colors: a deep black and a khaki with a tone close to green.
The khaki, in particular, is woven intricately with brown and green yarns, allowing fine hairlines and plaid patterns to emerge depending on how the light hits it.
Unlike materials that emphasize aging and texture, this fabric imparts a direct and elegant impression the moment it is worn.
The intentional contrast created by pairing this refined fabric with a loose fit silhouette further elevates the appeal of this shirt.
Linificio Linen Silk: Vintage Wash Holding the Joy of Nurturing
Next is the second model, the "Linen / Silk Vintage Wash."
This model uses yarn from the world's premier linen spinning manufacturer, Italy's Linificio.
With a long history dating back to its founding in 1873, Linificio's linen is incredibly supple despite its strength.
By blending silk into it and applying a unique vintage wash process, it draws out a nostalgic expression, as if it has been cherished for many years.
It comes in two colors: an orthodox black and a new color, vintage blue.
The vintage blue is composed of a combination of brown and blue yarns, resulting in a magnificent color that combines warmth and complexity.
Aging Through Practical Use Depicted by Neps and Wrinkles
The greatest feature of this fabric is the mixture of intentionally undyed neps.
By weaving very fine yarns at a high density, fluffing is kept to a minimum while the original, rustic expression of the linen and silk yarns is fixed directly into the fabric.
It is designed so that you can enjoy the process of wrinkles gradually forming and the fabric becoming more flexible and adapting to the body through repeated wearing and washing.
Styling Showcased by Two Different Materials
We propose two stylings that utilize the characteristics of each shirt.
Please take a look at the completely different expressions of the elegant "Hybrid Wool" and the nostalgic "Linen / Silk."
Style 1: An A-line Constructed with Hybrid Wool Black and Wide Pants
A style pairing the black "Hybrid Wool" model with voluminous wide pants.
Thanks to the inverted triangle silhouette tapered towards the shirt's hem, the center of gravity doesn't drop too low even when paired with wide pants, keeping the entire look very neat.
Style 2: A Lighthearted Outfit with Linen / Silk Black and Matching Pants
A style pairing the black "Linen / Silk Vintage Wash" model with pants of a similar material.
The fabric's neps and wrinkled texture provide a light impression, preventing the all-black outfit from feeling too heavy.
The process of the fabric breaking in and the sense of unity increasing with each wear is also a charm.
Staff Fit and Sizing
As a reference for size selection, we introduce the wearing feel from staff members with different body types.
| Staff Body Type | Size Worn and Fit |
|---|---|
| Staff A (170cm / 62kg) | Size 1 Size 1 provides the intended moderate loose fit. The length balance is just right, allowing it to be worn with any bottoms. |
| Staff B (181cm / 74kg / Broad shoulders) | Size 3 Because of my broad shoulders, I selected Size 3. Thanks to the drop shoulder, there is no tightness at all, and it can be worn comfortably. |
| Staff C (181cm / 58kg) | Size 2 Size 2 settles into a nice balance. Depending on your preference for sleeve length and body length, choosing Size 3 to emphasize the looseness is also a viable option. |
Revisiting the Appeal of the Loose Fit Shirt
Finally, we will summarize the key points of the two "Loose Fit Shirt" models introduced today.
- A three-dimensional split pattern ensuring range of motion, utilizing drop shoulders and elbow darts
- An inverted triangle silhouette that balances a loose body width with a clean waistline by tapering towards the hem
- A double-layered front body structure to prevent transparency, paired with vintage-style snap buttons expressing age
- Hybrid Wool model: Fabric utilizing REDA's Super 120's Merino Wool, emitting direct elegance through moderate tension and an elegant drape
- Linen / Silk model: Nostalgic fabric using Linificio yarn, where wrinkles and texture develop through repeated wear and washing
Rather than relying on complex patterns, the designer's philosophy is strongly reflected in the approach of constructing it as simply as possible.
We invite you to experience the sensation of the seemingly contradictory relaxed fit and elegance coexisting beautifully on your own skin.
View Today's Items (Shirts) Here
The four shirt items introduced today can be viewed here.
We sincerely look forward to welcoming you to FASCINATE_THE R.