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Today, we would like to introduce the MASU 26SS "in the raw" collection's iconic piece, the MB ZIP-UP DENIM JACKET.
This season's theme, "in the raw," is an attempt to affirm the process leading up to a garment's completion and the errors that occur during production.
Above all, this jacket is a crucial piece that fuses the brand's ongoing pillar of "vintage reinterpretation" with contemporary visual bugs.
Design Intent: Length and Sleeve Proportions Based on a Boxy Silhouette
The most distinctive feature of this jacket's form is the extreme contrast between the body length and the sleeve length.
While based on a boxy silhouette with a wide body, it adopts a cropped length set higher than the waist.
On the other hand, the sleeves are intentionally designed to be long, calculated to create a distinct "fabric stack" around the elbows when the arms are lowered.
This design deconstructs the rugged patterns typical of workwear, introducing an intentional discomfort to the silhouette, clearly defining its position as a modern garment rather than a mere replica.
Symbolic Distress Processing on the Right Sleeve and Left Chest
There is a clear logic behind the distress processing as well.
Holes shaped like an angel on the right sleeve and a wing on the left chest are intentionally placed.
Typically, denim distressing signifies "wear and tear" from aging, but designer Goto placed these as specific "symbols."
This acts as an irony where the broken state functions directly as a design, a detail that visually expresses the 26SS theme of "affirming imperfection."
The "in the raw" Philosophy: Embracing Production Bugs
According to the exhibition commentary, the background of this design stems from questioning the "overly refined modern fashion system."
By directly incorporating the rough state of production or a balance that appears at first glance to be a mistake into the product, the aim is to draw out the original vitality inherent in the clothing.
Existing fans will undoubtedly sense the true strength of the brand in this critical stance of "intentionally not refining."
Reasons for Choosing the Classic 13oz Okayama Denim
Supporting this highly original design is the 13oz Japanese denim produced in Okayama, the holy land of jeans.
Within the brand's lineup, denim is arguably the material that most reflects Goto's roots.
Traditional Rope Dyeing, White Core Yarns, and the Logic of Aging
This fabric undergoes "rope dyeing," where the core of the yarn remains undyed.
As friction from wear scrapes away the surface indigo and the white core appears, it develops a unique aging specific to the owner, going beyond the initial processing calculated by the artisans.
The 13oz weight is chosen to balance durability with ease of movement, offering practicality that covers three seasons outside of summer.
Contrast between the Gold-Foiled Leather Patch and Original Hardware
The brand's unique use of materials is also evident in the back details.
The gold-foiled oil leather patch features an engraved quote from a legendary pop star.
Furthermore, the front is equipped with an originally engraved top button and zipper slider.
The composition of clashing these decorative hardware elements against the context of denim as workwear is the very practice of MASU's ongoing philosophy: "clothes that can become vintage for someone."
26SS Styling: Setups and Layering
We propose specific styling looks using this denim jacket.
High-Contrast Layering Based on the Cropped Length
The most recommended look is a setup with denim pants made of the same material.
Because the jacket length is short, it allows for bold layering that exposes the hem of the inner layer.
Styling with an awareness of "transparency and overlapping," such as letting the inner color peek through the angel distress on the sleeve, is a joy unique to this piece.
By balancing the feet with heavy-form boots like GUIDI, you can emphasize the sharp silhouette shift from baggy bottoms to the upper body.
Staff Fit and Sizing
We present the changes in silhouette due to body type differences alongside actual measurements.
| Staff / Height & Weight | Size Worn | Fit & Characteristics |
|---|---|---|
| Staff A (172cm / 60kg) | Size 44 | True to size around the shoulders. The short length is emphasized, and pairing it with high-waisted pants maximizes the leg-lengthening effect. |
| Staff B (178cm / 68kg) | Size 46 | The stacking of the sleeves is clearly visible. Because there is room in the body width, it is possible to layer a thick sweatshirt underneath. |
| Staff C (183cm / 72kg) | Size 48 | The length becomes quite short, but the shoulder balance is optimal. This size choice is predicated on layering. |
Revisiting the Appeal of the MB ZIP-UP DENIM JACKET
Finally, let's summarize the structural key points of this item.
- Angel distress processing that affirms imperfection, based on the 26SS theme "in the raw"
- A contemporary boxy silhouette created by the contrast between the cropped length and long sleeves
- Long-term aging potential through 13oz Okayama denim and rope dyeing
- Detail work that integrates opposing elements, such as the gold-foiled leather patch and original buttons
While pursuing perfection as a garment, it intentionally carves in symbols of being "incomplete."
Please experience this piece, which directly reflects Goto's philosophy, along with its actual texture in our store.
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We sincerely look forward to welcoming you to FASCINATE KYOTO.