Inside the World of doublet: Stories and Design at Its Core

Designer Masayuki Ino: His Journey, Philosophy, and Creative Roots

Masayuki Ino was born in 1979 in Gunma Prefecture, Japan. During his school years, he wasn’t particularly fashion-focused, but his exposure to Ura-Harajuku culture and street fashion magazines marked a turning point. After studying fashion design at Tokyo Mode Gakuen, he honed his craft through hands-on experience—first at Abahouse International and then at a belt factory in Asakusa.

One of the defining chapters of his career came with his time at MIHARAYASUHIRO, where he spent about seven years planning and producing shoes and accessories. It was here that he learned not only how to bring original ideas to life, but also the importance of “rigorous quality control” and developing cohesive, concept-driven collections.

In 2012, he launched his own brand, doublet, alongside patternmaker Takashi Murakami and knitter Erina Kano. The concept was simple yet powerful: “shifting the everyday slightly out of place.” With humor and experimentation, doublet quickly gained attention for its playful interpretations of ordinary scenes and pop culture.

Ino’s core belief is that “clothing should make people smile and serve as a tool for communication.” This ethos is clearly reflected in the brand’s surreal prints, witty embroidery, and creative packaging—elements designed to elevate the user’s experience.

His global recognition was solidified in 2018 when he became the first Asian designer to win the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. This milestone propelled him onto the official stage at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, where he continues to impress international buyers and media as a leading voice in next-generation Japanese fashion.

The Origin Story: doublet’s Journey and Evolution

From the moment doublet was founded in 2012, its humorous and offbeat creations were immediately recognized within the industry as a breath of fresh air. Early collections combined Ura-Harajuku street sensibilities with trompe-l’œil-style embroidery and unconventional materials, consistently pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear.

In 2013, doublet received the Tokyo Governor’s Prize in the professional division of the “Tokyo New Designer Fashion Grand Prix,” followed by the “TOKYO FASHION AWARD” in 2014. Around this time, influencers and young artists began to wear the brand, gradually increasing its popularity among general consumers.

Then in 2018, as previously mentioned, the brand achieved a major breakthrough by winning the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, garnering global attention. Items like sneakers and accessories filled with quirky charm caught the eyes of overseas buyers, and its Paris Fashion Week runway shows were hailed as "the new era of Tokyo fashion."

Since then, doublet has actively collaborated with global brands such as Converse and ASICS. The brand is also known for its inventive packaging—releasing buzzworthy pieces like vacuum-packed and compressed T-shirts that instantly catch the attention of fashion lovers. Today, doublet enjoys strong support not only in Japan, but also among fashion enthusiasts across Europe, North America, and Asia, with increasing demand for international online purchases.

The World of doublet: Concepts and Signature Elements

The brand name “doublet” is borrowed from a wordplay concept coined by Lewis Carroll. It refers to the idea of transforming one word into another entirely by altering it one letter at a time. In the same way, doublet transforms familiar garments into something entirely new by shifting a single detail—this is the essence of what makes doublet distinct.

On the surface, many of doublet’s pieces appear to be standard basics. But look closer, and you’ll often find yourself thinking, “Wait… what is this?” That sense of subtle dissonance is intentional. For example, the brand’s “deadstock-style embroidered tags” make brand-new garments look like they’ve been sitting untouched for decades. Meanwhile, their use of distressing isn’t just vintage-inspired—it’s deliberately excessive, creating a “gimmick-like” aesthetic that’s both playful and thought-provoking.

One of doublet’s most iconic approaches is the Packaging Series. By enclosing T-shirts or hoodies in blister packs, as if they were toys or snacks, doublet breaks the norm that “fashion is just about clothes” and instead offers fashion as an experience. These whimsical touches are made possible by meticulous craftsmanship and a commitment to quality, which is a major reason for the brand’s strong reputation overseas.

【Buyer’s Insight】 A First-Hand Look at doublet’s Showroom

What left the strongest impression on our FASCINATE buyers during their first visit to a doublet exhibition was that the showroom itself felt like a full-blown entertainment space.

One standout moment was seeing accessories made from toy parts on display in place of traditional wallet chains. It was one of those delightful surprises that made us think, “Of course doublet would take it that far.” It wasn’t just a fashion preview—it was a space designed to evoke laughter and curiosity, a direct reflection of the brand’s philosophy.

One phrase we still remember clearly from that day: “It’s the best when someone can wear this and have fun talking about it with their friends.” That mindset—where the garment is just the beginning of a larger social experience and shared joy—sums up what makes doublet so uniquely compelling.

Fall/Winter 2025 Collection: Unpacking the Latest doublet 25AW

Season Theme: The Message Behind “VILLAINS”

The theme of the Fall/Winter 2025 Collection is none other than “VILLAINS.” While the word may initially evoke dark or negative imagery, designer Masayuki Ino’s interpretation is far more nuanced.

It all began with a question: “In a world where villains are labeled as evil, what exactly defines ‘evil’? And is it possible to flip those so-called flaws into a source of value?”

In practice, this means presenting “cracks” as visually beautiful textures, transforming toy snakes into hoodie drawstrings, and embracing “flaws” or elements of discomfort as design features with humor and creativity. Even vampire-inspired high-collared tops feel more playful than frightening, blending horror motifs with charm.

Whereas doublet’s previous collections focused on “distorting the everyday,” this season takes it further by reframing socially negative images themselves. The result is a deeper, more thought-provoking collection. The paradox of villains becoming a source of entertainment and delight is a perfect reflection of doublet’s signature humor and unconventional vision.

Collection Highlights: Key Silhouettes, Materials, and Color Palette

This season’s collection features a dominant focus on oversized and relaxed silhouettes, balanced by intentionally distorted or “damaged” detailing throughout.

For instance, leather pieces incorporate deeply etched crack motifs, either printed or treated, evoking a surreal sense of “beauty in brokenness.” Knitwear features frayed finishes where intentionally loosened threads burst with bold color, merging visual intrigue with a strong streetwear aesthetic.

The color scheme is anchored by deep tones such as black and dark gray, with bold accents in red, purple, and neon creating contrast. This palette captures the sinister edge of a “villain” while retaining playful charm—an unexpected harmony that defines the collection.

In line with the theme, the collection strikes a balance between “toxicity” and “softness”. This unlikely fusion—blending clashing elements into a unified narrative—is quintessential doublet.

【Buyer’s Insight】Seasonal Standouts and Key Trends

From a buyer’s perspective, two standouts are the evolution of distressed detailing and the clever playfulness of accessories. Take the “Villain Derby Shoes,” for example—shoes with curled-up toes revealing a red fabric tongue that bounces with each step, mimicking a monster’s mouth in motion.

Classic pieces like hoodies and sweatshirts also get the doublet treatment. Toy snakes replace standard drawstrings, and cuffs and hems appear singed and shredded—though upon closer inspection, it’s all expertly executed embroidery. These moments of surprise are scattered throughout the collection.

Overall, the line stays grounded in streetwear while boldly incorporating elements of high fashion and art. With a strong technical foundation honed through Paris Fashion Week, every garment feels impeccably constructed.

This season’s key trends include asymmetry, mixed-material patchwork, and genderless silhouettes. With a wider embrace of relaxed fits and whimsical details across fashion, the doublet 25AW collection is poised to captivate an even broader audience.

25-26 AW Item Preview & Breakdown

Overview: Price Range & Sizing Info

Here’s a general guide to doublet's pricing and sizing structure:

* Price Range:
- T-shirts & Sweatshirts: ¥10,000–¥29,000
- Hoodies: ¥30,000–¥49,000
- Leather Outerwear & Coats: Around ¥170,000
- Sneakers: ¥40,000–¥59,000
- Accessories: From ¥30,000

* Sizing:
- Available in S, M, L
- Many styles are cut with an oversized, unisex fit. It's common for customers—especially female clients—to size down.
- Some pieces are designed to fit XL or XXL, accommodating a wide range of body types and ensuring inclusivity across gender lines.

Category Spotlight: Jackets / Outerwear

BUCKLE OVERLOAD LEATHER JACKET

Item No: 25AW06BL222 / Price: ¥191,400 / Size: M / Color: Black / Arrival: July

A standout leather jacket crafted from supple sheep leather. The bold detailing around the neck and sleeves channels the VILLAINS theme, while the unexpectedly soft hand-feel makes it surprisingly wearable.

EMBROIDERED CHAIN TAILORED JACKET

Item No: 25AW16JK74 / Price: ¥137,500 / Sizes: S, M / Colors: Charcoal, Brown / Arrival: August

While many brands go with chain prints, this version features actual embroidered chains—giving it tactile dimension and a depth of character that only doublet could deliver.

Category Spotlight: Shirts / Knitwear

RIBCAGE KNIT PULLOVER

Item No: 25AW61KN192 / Price: ¥61,600 / Sizes: S, M / Color: Gray / Arrival: July

This pullover features bold cut-outs on the front and sleeves, referencing the skeletal ribcage. The design invites creative styling with colorful inner layers.

EMBROIDERED CHAIN SHIRT

Item No: 25AW42SH162 / Price: ¥85,800 / Sizes: S, M / Color: Gray / Arrival: August

A versatile shirt featuring the same embroidered chain motif seen on the tailored jacket. Works just as well on its own or layered beneath outerwear.

Category Spotlight: Trousers

EMBROIDERED CHAIN TAILORED TROUSERS

Item No: 25AW16PT320 / Price: ¥104,500 / Sizes: S, M, L / Colors: Charcoal, Brown / Arrival: August

Designed to match the embroidered jacket as a set. These wide-leg tailored trousers are classic doublet—experimental yet wearable, and full of nuanced detail.

Category Spotlight: Sneakers

SPIKY LEATHER SNEAKER

Item No: 25AW76FT63 / Price: ¥53,900 / Sizes: 25.5–28.5 / Colors: Black, White / Arrival: July

doublet’s signature original sneaker. Inspired by the shape of an inflated pufferfish, the upper features spiky protrusions in distressed cotton canvas—blending humor with punk aesthetics.

Online Availability & What’s Next

Stocking Schedule & Store Info

This collection is set to launch in stages from early July 2025.
Alongside our Kyoto store, the collection will also be released on our online shop during the same period. Customers from outside the region are encouraged to take advantage of our online shopping options.

Our website will feature detailed images, fit descriptions, and material guides for each item. If you have questions about sizing or availability, please feel free to reach out via chat or our inquiry form.

doublet Fall/Winter 2025 Lookbook

The brand's world view from the official lookbook

Experience doublet at Our Store: Online & In-Store Guide

Explore and Shop via Our Online Store

Our online store offers a full lineup of doublet items along with other carefully curated brands, all presented with rich visuals and detailed size information. Each product page includes styling images, staff comments, and fabric characteristics to help guide your decision.

We also offer international shipping, making it easy for customers overseas to enjoy our selections. With flexible payment options and a clear return/exchange policy, you can shop with confidence. If you’re unsure about sizing or how to style a piece, feel free to reach out via online chat or email—we're here to help.

A Unique In-Store Experience in Kyoto

At our Kyoto location, you can touch and feel each item firsthand, exploring the fine textures and details up close. Our staff are well-versed in the brand’s concept and styling advice, and will provide recommendations tailored to your preferences and fit. Visit us in-store to experience the full charm of doublet—where humor and craftsmanship come together.

Summary: doublet Brings a Fresh Breeze to Fall/Winter 2025

Rediscovering doublet’s Core Appeal

As we've explored, doublet is a brand that transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary, infused with humor and creativity. Designer Masayuki Ino’s desire to “surprise people and make them smile” is reflected not only in playful concepts but also in the craftsmanship and quality of each piece.

The 2025 AW collection, “VILLAINS”, stands out for its bold reinterpretation of concepts like "flaws" and "villains," turning them into positive, engaging fashion statements. The entire collection unfolds like a story, showcasing why doublet is gaining so much attention in the fashion world today.

Why doublet is the Brand to Watch Now

While many fashion brands exist, few strike a balance like doublet—delivering surprise, fun, and functionality in equal measure.

Whether you're looking for something unique, want to inject humor into your styling, or are searching for a fresh Japanese label with refined craftsmanship, doublet is the perfect choice. Given its global recognition, securing your favorite pieces now means being part of the buzz for future releases and collaborations.

Stay Tuned for Our Upcoming Arrivals!

Starting this fall/winter season, doublet will be available at FASCINATE. What we’ve introduced here is only a glimpse into what’s coming. Expect a broader lineup in-store and online soon—so stay tuned!

We’ll continue updating our official website and social media with more details. If you're interested in specific items, or want to inquire about reservations or holds, feel free to reach out. Let “VILLAINS” stir up your wardrobe and bring a fresh, edgy twist to your everyday style.