
Since its founding in 2008, Boris Bidjan Saberi has continued to captivate passionate fans around the world with his stoic aesthetics, relentless pursuit of materials, and philosophical approach that questions the relationship between body and clothing.
However, in late May 2025, the brand announced a suspension of operations under the current structure, citing "increasing manufacturing difficulties" as the reason.
This decision does not merely mark the end of a single brand, but can also be seen as an opportunity to reexamine the structural challenges faced by independent avant-garde brands in today’s fashion industry, and the nature of creativity within it.
This article unravels the brand’s history from its early days to the present, the designer’s personal background, and the unique design philosophy and characteristics that have produced creations often described as a “second skin.”
We will also look back at BBS's achievements in the fashion scene through representative items and collaborations, and finally explore what the “transformation” described by the designer truly means and how it may cast a stone into the future of avant-garde fashion.
We hope this article will help readers gain a deeper understanding of the essential value of the rare brand that is BORIS BIDJAN SABERI, and the significance of its shocking suspension of operations, while keeping an eye on its future developments.
- 1 : I. Shocking Announcement: BORIS BIDJAN SABERI to Suspend Operations after 26SS
- 2 : II. Background of Suspension: Official Announcement and the Depths of “Manufacturing Difficulties”
- 3 : III. Statement from the Designer: “This Is Not an End, but a Transformation”
- 4 : IV. The Trajectory of the Brand: The Avant-Garde Explorer, Boris Bidjan Saberi’s History
- 5 : V. The Designer, Boris Bidjan Saberi’s Portrait
- 6 : VI. Brand Characteristics: The Philosopher-Alchemist and “Second Skin”
- 7 : VII. Key Items from BORIS BIDJAN SABERI
- ・Tight Fit Denim Pants (LIGHT DENIM) / P13.D TF FKU10002
- ・Tight Fit Denim Pants (DIRTY DENIM) / P13.D TF FKU10002 dirty denim
- ・Tight Fit Denim Pants (Indigo) / P13-FKU10002 indigo
- ・Tight Fit Denim Pants (Light Gray) / P13-FTS10001 light gray
- ・Tight Fit Denim Pants (Indigo) / P13-FIF10003 indigo
- ・Low Crotch Tight Fit Denim Pants (Gray) / P11-F1939 Gray
- ・Baggy Pants (DIRTY DENIM) / P15.1 BF FKU10002 dirty denim
- ・Dyed Pants (BLACK) / P28.4 FIF10012 black
- ・Reversible Leather Jacket (Black) / J1-FMM20009 black
- ・High Cut Sneakers (Black × White) / BAMBA3.3
- ・Low Cut Sneakers (Black × White) / BAMBA2.1
- ・Low Cut Derby Shoes (White) / SHOE 1.1
- 8 : VIII. In Conclusion: The Future of Avant-Garde Illuminated Beyond Transformation
I. Shocking Announcement: BORIS BIDJAN SABERI to Suspend Operations after 26SS

In 2008, the avant-garde fashion brand "BORIS BIDJAN SABERI" was founded by Boris Bidjan Saberi, a Persian-German designer. The news that the brand will suspend operations following the presentation of its Spring/Summer 2026 collection spread through the fashion industry—particularly among the avant-garde and artisan communities—with great shock.
This shock signifies more than just the disappearance of a single brand from the market. Through its uncompromising creations and experimental approaches, BORIS BIDJAN SABERI established its position as a brand with cult-like followers worldwide, praised as "wearable art" or even "armor for the modern urban dweller."
The brand’s deep exploration of materials, innovative tailoring that fully calculates body movement, and its consistently sharpened monochrome-based color palette are recognized as unwavering signatures.
The sudden announcement in late May 2025 that such a uniquely positioned brand would suspend operations was received as an unforeseen and significant event for the scene.
Some overseas media even described the impact of this news on the industry using the word “shockwave,” emphasizing the magnitude of the aftermath.
Having presented collections at its own pace over many years and maintained a solitary stance separate from commercialism, the suspension of BORIS BIDJAN SABERI may have a considerable influence on the future direction of the avant-garde fashion scene.
II. Background of Suspension: Official Announcement and the Depths of “Manufacturing Difficulties”

The main reason officially cited by the brand for the suspension of operations is “increasing manufacturing difficulties.”
According to the announced statement, due to these difficulties, “under the current circumstances and structure, and without relocating production, it has become impossible to continue the brand’s projects while maintaining the standards of quality, integrity, and consistency that have been the foundation of the brand.”
Particularly noteworthy in this statement is the phrase “without relocating production.”
This suggests designer Saberi’s firm professionalism and ethics, as he chose not to adopt the easy route of relocating production overseas for cost reduction, but instead strove to protect to the very end the quality and craftsmanship at the in-house atelier in Barcelona, which form the core of the brand’s identity.
In past interviews, Saberi himself has compared his work to “slow food,” emphasizing an artisanal stance that pursues outstanding techniques, carefully selected materials, and innovative pattern-making rather than a marketing-driven business.
In an interview with StyleZeitgeist, he expressed his commitment to artisanal production systems, including the use of high-quality materials, fair wages for artisans, and intentionally limited production, and conveyed a clear resistance to scaling up.
He also mentioned a concrete issue in the supply chain—that “some wonderful fabric factories have gone out of business”—indicating that the “manufacturing difficulties” he faced were not merely cost-related but likely included the growing difficulty of procuring materials up to his standards, securing skilled artisans, and maintaining the production system in the Barcelona atelier itself.

For an independent avant-garde brand like BORIS BIDJAN SABERI, maintaining high-quality artisanal production in a modern landscape where massive fashion conglomerates and fast fashion chains dominate much of the market is a structural challenge facing the entire industry.
Niche independent brands are constantly exposed to multiple severe factors such as financial pressure, rising production costs, supply chain disruptions, and unstable consumer demand.
This decision by Saberi can be interpreted as an extremely artistic and ethical choice—one in which he chose to end the current operational model rather than compromise on the creativity and quality that are the soul of the brand amidst such harsh realities.
This raises a deep question once again about the sustainability of true artisanal luxury in today’s global fashion ecosystem.
III. Statement from the Designer: “This Is Not an End, but a Transformation”

Alongside the shocking announcement of the brand’s suspension of operations, designer Boris Bidjan Saberi issued a statement strongly suggesting that this is not simply an end.
His words, reported by multiple media outlets, were united in a powerful message: “This closure is not the end of the road, but a transformation.”
Furthermore, he stated, “Boris Bidjan Saberi has not disappeared. Boris’s vision, aesthetics, and spirit will continue in another form and another format, under a new structure that will allow for even greater exploration, without compromising the essence of the brand,” expressing clear intent for the continuation of creative activity and new future developments.
The weight of the word “transformation” is better understood in light of Saberi’s previous reflections on the fashion system and his creative activities.
According to a 2020 article from Yahoo Lifestyle, he confessed that he had once considered completely halting his activities as a designer, unable to fit into the existing fashion system.
However, he came to re-recognize that “his work is about developing something from zero—that is, creating culture,” and continued his activities.
This past statement supports the view that the current “transformation” is not merely a PR strategy to overcome the situation but a sincere attempt to explore more essential and sustainable forms of creative expression.

His personal background—born to both Persian and German cultures, heavily influenced by street cultures such as skateboarding and hip-hop, and possessing an insatiable pursuit of perfection—will be important elements in considering what direction this “transformation” may take.
Even after making the major decision to suspend operations, his stance of declaring the continuation of his creative identity can also be seen as a strategic move to maintain his connection with the brand’s loyal supporters, preserve his cultural capital, and reconstruct the next form of his activities.
IV. The Trajectory of the Brand: The Avant-Garde Explorer, Boris Bidjan Saberi’s History

The unique creations of Boris Bidjan Saberi are deeply rooted in his complex cultural background and early environment.
He was raised in the Bavarian region of southern Germany near the Austrian border and has a German mother and Persian (Iranian) father. This “dual system” consisting of Western and Middle Eastern traditions later became the central framework that shaped his design philosophy and aesthetic sense.
Both of his parents were deeply involved in the fashion industry, and he grew up in an environment where he was exposed to the entire lifecycle of fashion—from textile manufacturing to design and production.
This intimate exposure to the industry from early childhood gave Saberi a deep understanding of materials and clothing structure that could almost be called innate.
As Saberi himself says, his path into fashion began organically around the age of 12, when he began to “reconsider and remake his own clothes.”
His early creations, born out of practical needs such as seeking functionality suitable for skateboarding, are the reason he calls himself a “primitive designer” and gave his later avant-garde explorations a concrete sense of purpose.
He received formal education in fashion design in Barcelona, Spain, graduating with excellent results in 2006. After a preparation period starting around 2005, he began working under his own name in 2007 and officially established “BORIS BIDJAN SABERI” in 2008.
Launching an independent brand within such a short time after graduation speaks to his firm confidence and the already highly developed creative vision he possessed.
At the time of the brand’s founding, Saberi shared information through online forums such as StyleZeitgeist, and communicated with stores by emailing PDF-format lookbooks—methods that now seem analog from a modern perspective.
It is particularly noteworthy that he maintained a cautious stance toward e-commerce from the beginning. He cited the difficulty of conveying the texture, smell, and above all the nuances of craftsmanship of clothing digitally as the reason, which is an expression of his philosophy that values the tactile qualities and artisanal aspects of his work.

An important milestone in the brand’s evolution was the launch of the second line “11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi” in 2013.
This line inherited the experimental spirit of the main line while strongly reflecting elements of streetwear and sportswear, and was developed at a relatively affordable price point.
It drew inspiration from Saberi’s personal passions, such as skateboarding, music, and mountains, and aimed to respond to the “needs of everyday life.”
Production took place at an old clothing factory in Barcelona, and like the main line, innovative materials such as vinyl, wax, and oil and unique dyeing techniques were actively used. Especially the ongoing collaboration sneakers with the French outdoor sports brand “Salomon” achieved great success as symbolic items of this line, opening a new horizon for the fusion of avant-garde fashion and high-function streetwear.
The collections of BORIS BIDJAN SABERI have clear themes for each season and often have provocative titles.
For example, Spring/Summer 08 “NET 3X3”, Autumn/Winter 11 “BLOOD”, Spring/Summer 13 “CLASSICISM”, Autumn/Winter 14 “STRUCTURISM”, Spring/Summer 17 “POST HUMANISM”, Autumn/Winter 18 “PAGANISM”, Spring/Summer 19 “BRUTALISM”, Autumn/Winter 20 “TECHNO-PUNK”, and Spring/Summer 22 “GHOST TOWN” are representative examples.
These collections masterfully fuse elements of traditional Middle Eastern clothing with Western tailoring and the energy of street culture such as hip-hop, punk, and skateboarding, constantly presenting the evolving worldview of the brand.
The brand employs about 30 people, and almost all of its products are produced in its own atelier located in Barcelona, Spain. This atelier functions not merely as a production site, but as a laboratory to materialize his complex philosophy and aesthetics—a true “alchemist’s laboratory.”
Saberi’s works, with their avant-garde nature, gloomy yet powerful atmosphere, and the unique style often described as refined “sloppiness” (in German, Schlampigkeit), are sometimes compared to other masters of dark fashion such as Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens.
His influence is widely recognized, and in 2017 he was selected as one of the “HB100” (the 100 most influential creators of the year in the industry) by American fashion and culture media Hypebeast.
Eleven years after the brand’s founding, he held a runway show titled “Retrospective of 11 years of work of Boris Bidjan Saberi” at the 080 Barcelona Fashion Week, an event symbolizing the brand’s trajectory by reflecting on his works of the past 11 years.
The number “11” originates from the designer’s own birthday (September 11) and is used repeatedly in various forms as a motif with special meaning for the brand.
V. The Designer, Boris Bidjan Saberi’s Portrait

To understand the designer Boris Bidjan Saberi, one must focus on his dual cultural heritage and the unique values nurtured therein.
Born to a German mother and Persian (Iranian) father, he grew up exposed to the values and aesthetics of two different cultural spheres: the West and the Middle East. This “dual system” forms the core of his identity and serves as an inexhaustible source of inspiration in his creations.
Respect for traditional craftsmanship, raw energy from the street, serene minimalism, and at times the rough texture of materials—this fusion of seemingly contradictory elements is one of the most prominent characteristics of Saberi’s design.
The fact that both of his parents were engaged in the fashion industry greatly influenced his entry into this world.
Having closely observed the entire process of garment creation—from textile production to design and manufacturing—he developed deep knowledge of materials and techniques and an almost instinctive sensitivity.
As Saberi himself says, “My innate sensitivity to fabric was inherited from my parents,” his obsession with materials has reached a level beyond mere knowledge or technique, into the realm of instinct.

The episode of customizing his own clothes at age 12 shows that the origin of his creativity lay in free thinking unconstrained by preconceived notions and in addressing practical needs.
His statement, “If someone tells me, ‘things should be this way,’ I immediately look for other options. Because who really gets to decide how things should be?” clearly reflects his healthy skepticism toward existing norms and his persistent curiosity to seek new possibilities.
This very attitude can be seen as the driving force that led him into the realm of the avant-garde.
Formal education in fashion design in Barcelona, Spain, added professional skills and knowledge to his innate talent.
After graduation, rather than taking the conventional route of gaining experience at an established fashion house, he chose the path of independence early on to pursue his clear vision without compromise. This decision speaks to his strong will and unwavering confidence in his creations.
That his atelier is set up in a place like an “industrial archeological ruin” and is metaphorically referred to as an “alchemist’s lab for modern research” symbolizes that his creative process is not mere design work, but an act akin to alchemy—dialoguing with materials and transforming them to generate new value.
VI. Brand Characteristics: The Philosopher-Alchemist and “Second Skin”
At the core of BORIS BIDJAN SABERI’s creations lie several important philosophical concepts and the unique design features that embody them.
Understanding these is the key to unlocking the brand’s profound worldview and the special meaning embedded in its garments.
The Fusion of Duality and the Philosophy of “Second Skin”

One of the most important concepts flowing through the foundation of the brand is “duality.”
This directly reflects the designer’s cultural background of Germany and Persia, and attempts to intentionally fuse seemingly opposing elements such as Western and Middle Eastern traditions, street culture and traditional craftsmanship, form and formlessness.
The tension and harmony that emerge from this dialogue give rise to the uniquely original aesthetics that define BBS.
Closely connected to this duality is the philosophy of “regarding clothing as a second skin.”
For Saberi, clothing is not merely something to cover the body, but an “armor” that empowers and protects the wearer, meant to integrate with the body and become a part of it.
This philosophy is vividly reflected in the often-used sturdy textures, three-dimensional cutting that considers bodily movement, and materials that age and conform over time through the wearer’s temperature and motion.
The Symbolism of Numerology “11”

The number “11” is a powerful and recurring personal motif in the world of BORIS BIDJAN SABERI, functioning as an iconic trademark of the brand.
This originates from the designer’s own birthday (September 11), and is used in the name of the second line “11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi” as well as in the name of the brand’s signature unisex fragrance “11.”
The consistent use of this number goes beyond mere marketing strategy, serving as a deeply personal emblem woven into the core of the brand’s identity.
It enhances the brand’s mysterious narrative quality and adds a certain enigmatic charm for fans seeking a connection to the designer’s philosophy and personality behind the products.
Obsession with Materials and the “Alchemical” Process

When talking about BORIS BIDJAN SABERI, one cannot ignore his extraordinary obsession with materials and the experimental processes that transform them.
Described as “endless experimentation with fabrics,” Saberi manipulates materials, devotes immense time to dyeing leather in unique ways, and applies original finishes. Unsatisfied with ready-made textiles, he does not hesitate to “create his own fabrics and leathers from scratch.”
Exotic leathers like horsehide and kangaroo leather, waxed cotton, specially treated wool, and custom-developed cashmere blends are recognized as signature materials of the brand.
In the dyeing process, unique techniques such as object dyeing and acid dyeing are frequently used to produce the brand’s distinctive uneven tones, depth of color, and vintage-like textures.
Furthermore, methods like vinyl coating, nickel pressing, resin dyeing, epoxy resin emulsion application, and body molding (shaping garments to the human form) impart unexpected visual and tactile characteristics to the materials.
These processes are likened to “alchemy,” transforming raw materials into objects of unique value—hence why designer Boris Bidjan Saberi is often called “the alchemist of fashion.”
A One-of-a-Kind Silhouette and Design Characteristics

The brand’s aesthetics are often described as “dark and edgy,” “avant-garde and futuristic,” or “futuristic minimalism.” However, this minimalism does not signify simplicity but rather a distillation of essential forms backed by complex thought and technique.
While black dominates the monochrome palette, it is far from monotonous. Subtle hues such as deep purple, scorched ochre, khaki green, and blood-like orange, born from unique dyeing processes, add depth to the dark worldview.
Asymmetrical cutting, complex layering, and deconstructivist approaches are fundamental techniques that define BBS’s silhouette.
Traditional garment structures are dismantled and reconstructed, seams are intentionally exposed, and proportions are radically reimagined.
This results in sculptural, dynamic, and genderless silhouettes.
Features like interior carrying straps in jackets and the “armor” aspect of clothing suggest practical links to utilitarian elements and the “techwear” movement.
By integrating elements from streetwear, sportswear, and high fashion, BBS pioneered a style that has since inspired many followers.
His garments are designed as tools for identity, resilience, and self-expression—ideal for modern “urban nomads” navigating contemporary city life.
VII. Key Items from BORIS BIDJAN SABERI
The collection of BORIS BIDJAN SABERI consists of numerous iconic pieces that encapsulate its philosophy and techniques.
Here, we introduce a few representative items of the brand.
Tight Fit Denim Pants (LIGHT DENIM) / P13.D TF FKU10002

The P13 model of tight-fit denim pants is one of the brand’s iconic pieces. The item code P13.D TF FKU10002 suggests a specific denim fabric and treatment, and the LIGHT DENIM colorway—while clean—emits a distinct presence through BBS’s unique three-dimensional cutting and details. The tightly tailored silhouette, designed to follow the contours of the wearer’s body, embodies the brand’s aesthetic vision.
Tight Fit Denim Pants (DIRTY DENIM) / P13.D TF FKU10002 dirty denim

The “DIRTY DENIM” version of model P13.D TF FKU10002. As the name suggests, it features intentional dirt and used processing to express the depth and texture of jeans that have been worn for many years. This piece represents a high-level fusion of BBS’s signature decadent beauty and the universal appeal of denim. A characteristic of this processing is that each piece has a unique appearance.
Tight Fit Denim Pants (Indigo) / P13-FKU10002 indigo

This is the P13-FKU10002 model finished in indigo, the original color of denim. The deep indigo blue promises beautiful fading (such as whiskers and creases) as it is worn, allowing the wearer to enjoy its aging process to the fullest. The combination of BBS’s tight-fit silhouette and indigo denim offers both avant-garde and classic appeal.
Tight Fit Denim Pants (Light Gray) / P13-FTS10001 light gray

P13-FTS10001 is a model number indicating specific materials and processing. This tight-fit denim pants in light gray is relatively bright within the BBS color palette and gives a refined impression. It’s an ideal choice as an accent for monotone coordination or to bring a sense of lightness. Due to unique dyeing and processing, it features a rich color tone that is more than just a simple light gray.
Tight Fit Denim Pants (Indigo) / P13-FIF10003 indigo

A tight-fit denim pants in indigo color under the model number P13-FIF10003. It may feature a different denim fabric or treatment compared to the previous FKU10002, with possible variations in texture or fading characteristics. Even within the same P13 model, BBS offers diverse variations depending on the season or fabric used, each possessing its own unique charm.
Low Crotch Tight Fit Denim Pants (Gray) / P11-F1939 Gray

The P11 model features a deeper rise (low crotch) compared to the P13, with a distinctive silhouette that tapers sharply toward the hem while allowing more room around the waist. This P11-F1939 Gray expresses that characteristic silhouette in gray denim. It is an item that combines a sense of relaxation with a fashionable tension, highlighting the individuality of the wearer.
Baggy Pants (DIRTY DENIM) / P15.1 BF FKU10002 dirty denim

P15.1 BF (Baggy Fit) is, as the name suggests, characterized by a relaxed baggy silhouette. The notation FKU10002 dirty denim suggests that the denim fabric used features the same DIRTY DENIM processing found in the P13 model. The loose silhouette and grunge-inspired processing convey a street-like vibe while also evoking BBS’s unique decadent aesthetic.
Dyed Pants (BLACK) / P28.4 FIF10012 black

P28.4 FIF10012 are black pants dyed using BBS’s original dyeing techniques. BBS’s dyeing process is highly advanced, giving even standard black shades a distinct depth, luster, and texture. The fabric code FIF10012 likely indicates a special material suited for this dyeing method. Despite its minimalism, the piece exudes a commanding presence.
Reversible Leather Jacket (Black) / J1-FMM20009 black

A leather jacket that represents the essence of the brand. The J1-FMM20009 black combines functionality and design with its reversible construction. Using high-quality leather and BBS’s distinctive three-dimensional cutting and sewing techniques, it offers a fit that clings to the body and a beautiful silhouette. The reversible design allows for enjoying different looks, making this item truly embody the idea of a “second skin.”
High Cut Sneakers (Black × White) / BAMBA3.3

The BAMBA series enjoys immense popularity in BBS’s footwear line. BAMBA3.3 is a high-cut model featuring a striking black and white contrast. The technical sole unit and upper design combining leather and mixed materials create a high-level fusion of fashion and streetwear. Many models in this series are known for their collaborations with Salomon, successfully balancing design and functionality.
Low Cut Sneakers (Black × White) / BAMBA2.1

BAMBA2.1 is the low-cut version of the BAMBA series. Like the high-cut model, it features a sharp contrast between black and white, offering excellent versatility for a variety of styling options. The complex cutting of the upper, use of mixed materials, and high-performance sole embody the hallmark details of the BBS and Salomon collaboration.
Low Cut Derby Shoes (White) / SHOE 1.1

SHOE 1.1 is a leather shoe that offers a different approach from the BAMBA series. While based on a classic derby shoe design, it incorporates BBS’s signature minimalist and avant-garde interpretation. The white color accentuates the clean form and high-quality leather texture, making it a versatile option suitable for both formal occasions and fashion-forward casual styles.
VIII. In Conclusion: The Future of Avant-Garde Illuminated Beyond Transformation

The suspension of operations of the BORIS BIDJAN SABERI brand can be said to mark the end of an important era in avant-garde fashion.
For nearly 20 years, Boris Bidjan Saberi has had an immeasurable impact on menswear—particularly in the avant-garde and artisanal fields—through his uncompromising artistic vision and dedication to craftsmanship. His fusion of street culture and meticulous handcraft, original material development and experimentation, and distinctive aesthetics such as asymmetrical cutting and complex layered looks have left an undeniable footprint on the modern fashion scene.
His garments have not merely been fashion items, but deeply loved by many as empowering "armor" or a "second skin" for the wearer.
However, as the designer repeatedly emphasizes, “this is not an end but a transformation,” this suspension does not signify the complete termination of his creative activity. Rather, it can be seen as a transitional phase to a new stage in which he seeks a more sustainable and freer means of expression, while maintaining the core philosophy and aesthetics of the brand.
While the specifics of what he calls “a new structure that enables greater exploration without compromising the essence of the brand” are not yet clear, industry insiders and fans alike anticipate a reconstructed form of activity, such as the release of smaller, more focused capsule collections, deepened artisanal collaborations with other artists or brands, or a new approach centered around digital platforms.
Saberi’s next move may become a precedent for how independent designers can adapt to the pressures of the global market while preserving their creative identities—a major challenge of our time.

This decision once again sheds light on the structural challenges faced by independent designers, especially those who emphasize artisanal methods, in today’s fashion industry—financial pressures, unstable supply chains, shifting consumer preferences, and more.
The difficulties faced by Saberi are shared by many in this niche field, and the “new structure” he seeks may serve as a touchstone for exploring sustainable creative practices across the entire industry.
The legacy of BORIS BIDJAN SABERI will be shaped not only by the many collections he has presented in the past, but also by the path of “transformation” that he is expected to embark upon.
His journey will undoubtedly provide valuable insights into how the uniquely positioned domain of avant-garde fashion can survive and evolve within the rapidly changing industrial landscape of the modern era.
We must continue to closely follow Boris Bidjan Saberi—a rare and exceptional talent—with deep respect, to see what kind of light he will shine in his next creative stage.
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All the items introduced in today's blog are available at FASCINATE_THE R (Osaka Nishi Shinsaibashi) and FASCINATE KYOTO. If you have any questions about the items, please feel free to contact us.
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