[Third Chapter]
Pattern work based on experience and theory
2019.6.23

Essential patterns that DEVOA has been based on and created.

Mr. Nishida’s own experience and precise patterns are backed by his own theories and have continued to evolve from trial and error to his brand establishment.

We talked about what kinds of ways of thinking that underly the pattern creation and the process of research that continues from the past to present.

DAISUKE NISHIDA

Raised in Nagasaki Prefecture.

After working as a sports instructor, he founded the brand in 2005.

Patterns and high-quality manufacturing is based on his own experiences and knowledge, attracting the support of core fashion lovers from both Japan and overseas.

"We try to create a pattern by balancing the fabric we produce, such as in what position it is desirable to make it look beautiful and where to put space to create a new silhouette."

---DEVOA is a brand that is characterized by its patterns, what kind of ideas goes through your mind when you produce these items?

With regards to pattern balance along with the comfort of the clothes, the core balance is designed with DEVOA clothes to balance without thinking too much of the person's actual body type.

The body has meridians that make you feel comfortable or uncomfortable.

For example, since fabrics gather in the sewing allowance and become stiff, we think about the direction of winding in the taping and pattern work where the sewing allowance is not present in the joint in relation to the movement.

This idea has not changed from 14 years ago when we launched the brand.

This is a (pattern) philosophy I thought of when launching the brand.

In all the design documents related to the idea of drawing lines, for example, the idea of ​​how to bring out the wrinkles of the pants, or what kind of angles are used to broaden the range of movement, the way of thinking underlies the creation of DEVOA.

After all, this is the way of thinking as a brand and it's a very important point as well.

---So you have been producing and creating based on this idea you have described right?

For me, the purpose is not to make clothes three dimensional but to make clothes with the ideal balance I think of, and as a result, having it become three-dimensional clothes.

In any case, I always think about what I want to create with what idea, what it has or will become, that is the most important process.

When the process is broken, whatever you make is only surface deep, the process up to that point is the base of all the thoughts as to how you got there.

Although these stories have nothing to do with customers who are actually picking up the products, it is a point to take note of when you consider the product price.

---Did you think of this in the two years before you started the brand as you mentioned earlier?

Yes, I did.

My own way of thinking is the root of everything, it is an important point that leads to the realisation of the works.

This was put into action in the first exhibition I did in Ebisu.

--- Since the beginning, you've been particular about the patterns, right?

es, I have even made a pattern on one sleeve that took me 11 stops on the sewing machine to finish making.

The pattern is also based on the original idea of "This is how I thought about making something, so that is how that something becomes like this”, it is complicated but when people who don't understand our idea see the pattern, they will keep thinking and question why the pattern is made this way.

It must have been really hard for the garment factory at that time and I felt really apologetic...

In fact, I wasn't just obsessed with patterns, at the time, the most important thing I wanted to do was to put DEVOA ideas into shapes so I think the design and patterns were a little more avant-garde than they are now.

---We heard that the first shirt you sold was packed into a shirt box, can you elaborate on that?

The first clothes I designed was a shirt.

I think it took more than a year to form the toile at that time.

As I had strong feelings filled in with thoughts at that time, I sold it in a box with an image of a philosophy book of DEVOA.

---It's amazing that it took only 1 year to complete the toile.

I think the pattern was hard.

For human skin, it stretches in all directions no matter where you pull, but cloth does not react the same way.

I was not allowed to actually use stretch fabric so I repeated the pinwork every time, trying the piece on again and again, but it still didn't turn out to be flat so I repeated it many times.

It is all thanks to the patterer for doing so well.

--- You also made concave shoulder shirts right?

The shirt that DEVOA was thinking at that time was close to the idea of tailored shirts, and we experimented with yukiwata (a type of thin cotton).

As an item, it is a shirt, but except for the fact that it is made with full lining and does not use shoulder pads and haircloth, I think what I did was the same as a tailored jacket.

--- It sounds like a lot of researching and experimenting.

Basically, a showroom is like a presentation of the progress of research.

While the philosophy remains the same, patterns need to be thought differently about what has happened and change the fitting.

The human body rarely stands upright with arms down straight.

We try to create a pattern by balancing the fabric we produce, such as in what position it is desirable to make it look beautiful and where to put space to create a new silhouette.

--- So that is how it evolves, by repeating and by improving.

The idea of DEVOA has not changed.

From the very beginning, we've looked at what we've learned by experimenting with different things and now we're moving toward how to make it simple.

Maybe we'll go back to where we started, but I can't say for sure how we're going to do it.

However, regarding the seams, how to take them out and how to balance them, we are always prepared so that customers can enjoy them.

In the future, we will continue to produce products with a firm commitment to quality, including the development of fabrics and stable sewing as well as patterns.