About 2019-20AW collection, which starts in July 2019.
Based on the taste of military, this collection also attracted the attention with pieces similar to DEVOA's first works.
We will introduce the state of the latest collection, the commitment that has been engulfed so far and the background of the production.
Raised in Nagasaki Prefecture.
After working as a sports instructor, he founded the brand in 2005.
Patterns and high-quality manufacturing is based on his own experiences and knowledge, attracting the support of core fashion lovers from both Japan and overseas.
--- What images and ideas did you come up with for the 19-20 AW collection?
Since the production of the fabric is always made ahead of the production of DEVOA, we make designs from fabrics accordingly.
This season, there were a lot of military-inspired fabrics so the design started from military designs.
Although there were always military designs every season, this time, there were many fabrics that were especially well tailored.
---The double riders this time is a very impressive piece.
I'm not particularly conscious of the design but I think the double rider's design attracted me because there were many single type designs until now and I wanted to use horse leather.
This is made by fitting the front of the usual double riders shallowly.
The back part is made of limestone rubber sheet of Yamamoto Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. and it is made with the unique action pleats structure of DEVOA.
I am currently trying to find the next design beyond this structure but it is quite difficult.
Nonetheless, we will continue to create new challenges.
---Have you ever been conscious of the composition of your pants?
I am not particularly conscious about this.
High quality wool is often used.
Therefore, there were many materials that didn't fit slim pants.
As a collection, pants are made up of about half slim pants and half loose pants for balance.
---Do you mean that you consider the items individually when you make a collection?
That's right.
I often think about it from the production of the fabric, so I don't just think about it by itself individually, I try not to think about the bigger structure first.
However, there are cases where the pattern structure is considered together, so there is no particular rule or order.
---So, first of all, you decide on the fabric, and then the design?
The fabric takes the most time to make, so we often design pieces to fit the fabric.
The pattern is considered as a pattern, so it's like going through them at the same time and then cross-referencing them later.
---Are there any recommendations for next season?
As mentioned previously about making the fabrics, the denim with uneven threads are highly recommended.
The balance between this thick material and tight pants gives a very modern look.
It's a retrograde product but I think it expresses DEVOA well.
The fabric was originally woven by an old Selvedge loom.
Actually, it was completed 2 years ago, but at that time, the machine broke after weaving 70 meters.
As I was only able to weave 70 meters, If I were to put it out into the collection, I would only be able to produce a very small amount for orders.
When the fabric factory got another loom, we were able to produce again so we put it into the collection.
---What about other recommended items? ？
Other than the denim, the trench coat, blouson and other classic ones have a good size balance.
The coats are not oversized but was designed to balance the size so that it can be worn over a jacket.
I want DEVOA customers to enjoy wearing them.
---This time, there was a collaboration item with photographer, LEN. Could you tell us more about this collaboration?
The picture print on the blouson and trench coat uses the works taken by him.
To print it with expression, it is printed by screen printing many times to make it look like a vintage photo.
It was not printed easily as well. Firstly, only the part where the photo will be was discharge printed before screen printing was done.
Then, the screen prints were randomly placed, it took a lot of time and effort to proceed with the printing as it had to be carefully overlap the same parts.
---Do you mean by doing so, there won’t be 2 of the same expression?
That's right.
They are all made by hand so there won’t be 2 that are the same.
I think the workers had a hard time because there were 7 screen printing layers to be done.
Thanks to that, I think the atmosphere was made very well.
---Did you print during the fabric stage?
This is printed on the rough cut of the fabric.
Since it is impossible to work in the conditions of the product or piece of cloth, we asked them to print it while sewing.
---It's more like a piece of art than a piece of clothing.
The craftsman who printed this is a person who also does other famous brands such as Issey Miyake and I am thankful that he could print it by hand and not digitally.
The workers told me that it was difficult to remove the pre-dyed fabric.
Many prototypes were made but since none of them were the same each time, it was conveyed to us that the feeling of the workers who printed these pieces was a very big factor that determined the atmosphere of the work.
It took a long time to make it and thanks to everyone's cooperation, this print is finally finished. It was a good experience that will remain close to me in my memory.
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[First Chapter]
The source of thought, philosophy and manufacturing -
[Second Chapter]
Meaning and reason to creating art pieces -
[Third Chapter]
Pattern work based on experience and theory -
[Fourth Chapter]
Commitment to sewing and the relationship with the factory -
[Fifth Chapter]
Difference between Japanese and Italian fabrics -
[Sixth Chapter]
The feature of Faliero Sarti -
[Seventh Chapter]
About 19-20AW Collection